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POLISH & SHINE


Please read the warning, no guarantee is given for any recipes.

Contents

  1. Foreword
  2. WARNING
  3. Donate
  4. The House
    1. FLOOR POLISH I
    2. FLOOR POLISH II
    3. FLOOR POLISH III
    4. LINOLEUM I
    5. LINOLEUM II
    6. BRICK AND TILE FLOORS
    7. TILES AND STEPS
    8. MARBLE FIREPLACES
    9. MARBLE
    10. STONE HALLS AND FLOORS
    11. PAINT ON WOODWORK AND WALLS I
    12. PAINT ON WOODWORK AND WALLS II
    13. FOR PAINTED WALLS
    14. PAINT WORK
    15. WHITE PAINT
    16. BATHS I
    17. BATHS II
    18. BOILERS
    19. WHITE ENAMEL COOKERS
    20. CHIMNEYS I
    21. CHIMNEYS II
    22. SOME OLD METHODS OF CLEANING CHIMNEYS
    23. WINDOWS I
    24. WINDOWS II
    25. WINDOWS III
    26. WINDOWS IV
  5. The Contents of the House
    1. FURNITURE CREAM I
    2. FURNITURE CREAM II
    3. FURNITURE CREAM III
    4. FURNITURE CREAM IV
    5. FURNITURE CREAM V
    6. FURNITURE REVIVER
    7. TO WAX FURNITURE
    8. TO REMOVE WHITE RINGS CAUSED BY HEAT OR WATER FROM
    9. TO REMOVE MARKS FROM POLISHED SURFACES II
    10. TO REMOVE MARKS FROM POLISHED SURFACES III
    11. TO REMOVE SCRATCHES FROM FURNITURE I
    12. TO REMOVE SCRATCHES FROM FURNITURE II
    13. TO REMOVE DENTS
    14. TO REMOVE INK STAINS FROM FURNITURE
    15. TO FILL SMALL HOLES IN FURNITURE
    16. TO CLEAN MAHOGANY
    17. TO CLEAN AND GIVE GLOSS TO OLD OAK AND OAK
    18. TO CLEAN WICKER FURNITURE
    19. TO CLEAN OLD LACE I
    20. TO CLEAN OLD LACE II
    21. TO TINT LACE
    22. TO REVIVE BLACK LACE
    23. TO STIFFEN LACE
    24. TO WASH A WHITE LACE VEIL
    25. TO REMOVE STAINS FROM LINEN
    26. MILDEWED LINEN I
    27. MILDEWED LINEN II
    28. A BALL TO TAKE STAINS FROM LINEN
    29. TO CLEAN RUGS AND CARPETS I
    30. TO CLEAN RUGS AND CARPETS II
    31. TO CLEAN RUGS AND CARPETS III
    32. TAPESTRY
    33. TO REMOVE STAINS FROM SILK I
    34. TO REMOVE STAINS FROM SILK II
    35. TO REMOVE STAINS FROM SILK III
    36. WOOLLENS
    37. TO REMOVE COD-LIVER OIL FROM WOOLLENS, , ESPECIALLY BABY CLOTHES
    38. TO TAKE THE SHINE OUT OF NAVY BLUE WOOLLEN
    39. TO KEEP WOOLLENS SMOOTH
    40. WOOLLENS
    41. STAINS
    42. TO CEMENT BROKEN CHINA I
    43. TO CEMENT BROKEN CHINA II
    44. TO CEMENT BROKEN CHINA III
    45. TO CEMENT BROKEN CHINA IV
    46. DIAMOND CEMENT FOR MENDING CHINA
    47. CLEANING BOTTLES
    48. CLEANING DECANTERS
    49. TO REMOVE STAINS FROM GLASS AND OLD ESTABLISHED
    50. LOOKING GLASSES
    51. TO CLEAN BRASS AND COPPER I
    52. TO CLEAN BRASS AND COPPER II
    53. SILVER
    54. SILVER I
    55. SILVER II
    56. SILVER III
    57. TO CLEAN TABLE SILVER I
    58. TO CLEAN TABLE SILVER II
    59. SILVER OR PLATE POWDER
    60. TO CLEAN SILVER PLATE AND BRASS
    61. TO CLEAN POLISHED STEEL ARTICLES
    62. TO CLEAN AND PRESERVE LEATHER UPHOLSTERY I
    63. TO CLEAN AND PRESERVE LEATHER UPHOLSTERY II
    64. A POLISH FOR LEATHER UPHOLSTERY, BROWN BOOTS OR
    65. TO POLISH PATENT LEATHER
    66. TO CLEAN LEATHER BAGS
    67. TO POLISH BROWN BOOTS AND SHOES
    68. TO MAKE BOOTS WATERPROOF
    69. WELLINGTON BOOTS
  6. The Family Wash
    1. WASHING HINTS - FLANNEL
    2. WASHING HINTS - SILK
    3. WASHING HINTS LINEN AND COTTON
    4. IRONING HINT
    5. JAVELLE WATER
    6. TOILET SOAP
    7. SPERMACETI SOAP
    8. HOUSEHOLD SOAP I
    9. HOUSEHOLD SOAP II
    10. CARPET SOAP
    11. HOME-MADE WASHING POWDER
    12. A MAGIC CLEANSER
    13. SCRUBBING PASTE
  7. Pests that Crawl and Fly
    1. ANTS I
    2. ANTS II
    3. FLIES I
    4. FLIES II
    5. FLIES III
    6. FLIES IV
    7. HOME-MADE FLY PAPER
    8. POMANDER
    9. BEETLES I
    10. MOTHS I
    11. MOTHS II
    12. MOTHS III
    13. MOTHS IV
    14. MOTH POWDER
    15. TO PREVENT THE BITES OF GNATS AND MIDGES
  8. An Abracadabra of Good Advice
    1. A STRONG ADHESIVE PASTE
    2. A STRONG PASTE FOR PAPER
    3. ROMAN CEMENT FOR OUTSIDE PLASTERING
    4. TO RENDER CLOTHING NON INFLAMMABLE
    5. TO MAKE COAL LAST LONGER I
    6. TO MAKE COAL LAST LONGER II
    7. TO DISINFECT DUSTBINS
    8. TO IMPROVE GILDING
    9. GLOVES
    10. FELT HATS
    11. IVORY
    12. JEWELRY
    13. TO COOL LIQUOR IN HOT WEATHER
    14. MACKINTOSHES
    15. MICE
    16. ONIONS
    17. PURIFYING ROOMS
    18. SLUGS
    19. SPONGES
    20. STEEL WOOL
    21. SUEDE COATS
    22. TEAPOTS AND JUGS
    23. IRON TANKS
  9. Household Receipts of Past Ages
    1. A DELICATE CANDLE FOR A LADIES' TABLE
    2. HOW TO HELPE YOUR BOTTLES WHEN THEY ARE MUSTIE
    3. CLEANING PEWTER
    4. TO MAKE PERFUMED LIGHTS
    5. THE FRENCH QUEEN'S PERFUME
    6. TO MAKE THE BEST AND STRONGEST GLEW
    7. ANOTHER KIND OF STRONG GLEW FOR PIPES
    8. POWDER TO LAY AMONG LINNEN
    9. TO KILL INSECTS
    10. METHOD OF RESTORING AND RENDERING LEGIBLE DAMAGED
    11. TO MAKE OBLITERATED OR SUNK WRITING IMMEDIATELY
    12. TRACING PAPER
    13. TO PREVENT THE SMOKING OF A LAMP
    14. THE FRENCH METHOD OF POLISHING WOOD
    15. TO POLISH IVORY
    16. TO PRESERVE BOOKS
    17. TO CLEAN BLOND LACE
    18. A RECEIPT TO CURE A COLD
  10. Email Advice

Foreword

Our English Housewife must be of chaste thought, stout courage, patience untyred, watchful, diligent, witty, pleasant, constant in friendship, full of good neighbourhood, wise in discourse, but not frequent therein, sharp and quick of speech, but not bitter or talkative, secret in her affairs, comfortable in her counsels, and generally skilful in the worthy knowledge which do belong to her vocation.
COUNTRY CONTENTMENTS, BY GERVASE MARKHAM, 1620

WARNING

All the recipes should be used with considerable care: no guarantee is given of their efficacy and the ingredients and methods.  Some of the older recipes should warn the user of possible consequences.

The House

The air must be pure, frisky, and clean; the foundations of gravel mixed with clay; the chief prospects East and West, or North-east and South-west; never South, for the South wind doth corrupt and make evil vapours.
DIETARY OF HEALTH, BY DR ANDREW BOORDE, 1542
FLOOR POLISH I
Melt down any odd candle ends which are too small for burning and when quite liquid, remove bits of wick and add turpentine in equal proportions to the melted candle grease; warm slightly before using.
FLOOR POLISH II
turpentine
linseed oil
vinegar
methylated spirits


Mix together in equal parts.

FLOOR POLISH III
Melt two wax candles or oddments of candles and ½ lb. of shredded soap in 1 gill of boiling water; stir well. When cold, add turpentine and linseed oil, each in equal proportions to the amount of candle grease used. Keep well corked.
LINOLEUM I
Take half a tin of polish, and fill it up with paraffin. Set in a safe place to dissolve and stir until smooth. Used on linoleum, tiled or polished floors, this will both clean and polish, and make the surface less slippery.
LINOLEUM II
5 pints of water
1 pint of turpentine
¾ lb. beeswax
3 oz. carbonate of potash


Dissolve potash in boiling water. Add the beeswax, shredded. When melted add the turpentine slowly and stir until the mixture is of the consistency of cream.

AUSTRALIA
BRICK AND TILE FLOORS
Add a small quantity of paraffin to the pail of water. It will keep floors a good red colour.
TILES AND STEPS
If red ochre or white hearthstone is mixed with a little thin starch (left over from washing day) the tiles will keep clean much longer and the colour will not wash off during a shower of rain.
MARBLE FIREPLACES
8 oz. whitening
8 oz. shredded soap
2 oz. washing soda
2 oz. powdered pumice
Put the ingredients in a jar; mix them well. Pour over them two pints of boiling water. Stand the jar in a pan of boiling water and simmer for twenty minutes to half an hour, stirring at intervals. Spread this paste, while it is still hot, over the stained marble, getting it well into any cracks or carving. Leave for twenty-four hours. Wash off with soapy water. This quantity is sufficient for two mantelpieces, unless they are very elaborate; the same mixture may be used to clean a badly stained tombstone.
MARBLE
Mix up a quantity of very strong soap lees with quicklime to the consistency of milk and lay it on the marble where it may remain for twenty-four or thirty hours. Afterwards clean the marble with soapy water.
OLD RECIPE BOOK, 1848
STONE HALLS AND FLOORS
Boil 1 lb. of pipe-makers' clay with a quart of water and a quart of small beer and put in a piece of stone blue. Wash the stones in this mixture and when dry rub them with a flannel and a brush.
PAINT ON WOODWORK AND WALLS I
2 tablespoonsful of soft soap
¼ lb. of glue
Put soap and glue in a 24b. jam jar almost filled with water. Stand jar in a pan of hot water until the glue is melted. Stir well. Use on high-gloss paint.


PAINT ON WOODWORK AND WALLS II
1 tablespoonful borax
2 tablespoonful size
Mix with a little cold water. Add a quart of boiling water.
FOR PAINTED WALLS
One tablespoonful of bicarbonate of soda to 1 quart of warm water.
PAINT WORK
A solution of soap less powder is recommended for painted surfaces both inside and outside the house. It must be rinsed off with COLD water.
WHITE PAINT
White paint can be cleaned with equal parts of milk and paraffin.

All these mixtures require the same treatment.  Wash down well with a soft cloth soaked with the solution.  Rinse with another cloth and plenty of clean water.  Polish with a soft duster or cloth.

BATHS I
Moisten a tablespoonful of dry kitchen salt with a little spirits of turpentine, and scour the bath well with this, using an old leather or soft rag.  Wash afterwards with warm, soapy water.
BATHS II
Mix some whiting with water and rub all over the bath. Rinse out with warm water. This has been used with success for baths discoloured by brown water from springs or streams
BOILERS
To remove rust from boilers: rub the boiler with unsalted fat of some kind and then put in some shavings and set fire to them. When the boiler is cold throw in some cabbage leaves and potato parings - in fact all kinds of vegetable trimmings. Add enough water to cover and boil for two hours. Empty carefully, rinse, and, while the boiler is still warm, rub the sides and bottom of it with soft soap, leaving this on the boiler until it is required for use.
WHITE ENAMEL COOKERS
Take one tablespoonful of paraffin and two of salt. Rub this with a piece of flannel all over the burnt stains which will easily come off. Then wash well with hot water and soda.
CHIMNEYS I
A few pinches of flowers of sulphur thrown on the coals or wood will speedily extinguish the most raging fire in a chimney. A pound of sulphur has effectively put out, in a few minutes, a fire in a tall chimney when the flames rose two or three yards from the top.
BENJAMIN HAYWARD, 1830
CHIMNEYS II
Burn potato peelings mixed with salt at least once a week in your grate. Such a glaze will form on the inside of your chimney that it cannot get clogged with soot, so is not likely to go on fire.
SOME OLD METHODS OF CLEANING CHIMNEYS
Fire a gun up an old-fashioned wide kitchen chimney.  Push a holly bush up, tied to draining rods, or tie a bunch of holly or heather to a long rope and drop it down the chimney from the roof. One person pulled from the top and one from the bottom. The sender did this many times with her husband some forty years ago. As a child she also remembers her grandfather cleaning the copper chimney by buying 2d. worth of gun powder, wrapping it in newspaper, paper it in the wood and coal) lighting it, and putting the poker against the fire door. The member says: 'We used to wait for the bang and my father used to say, "That will go L for leather". And it did.'
WINDOWS I
Add some starch to the water with which windows are cleaned. It helps to remove the dirt.
WINDOWS II
Polish windows with a little furniture cream. This keeps away flies and the glass stays clean for a long time.
WINDOWS III
One pint of methylated spirit to 3 pennyworth of whiting. Dilute the whiting with a little water. Add the methylated spirits. Apply in the usual way and rub with a clean dry duster.
WINDOWS IV
Paraffin and vinegar (or water) in equal parts. About 1 tablespoonful of butter of antimony to the pint and a little methylated spirits. Shake well and apply with small pads of butter muslin. This mixture may also be used for polishing mirrors, brass, silver and highly polished furniture.

A crack in a window pane can be mended by painting it with water glass.

The Contents of the House

Old as the house is, that chimneypiece is the dirtiest thing I saw in it, and I am determined to have no one thing carved in the furnishing of my house at Wimbledon, my taste having always been to have things plain and clean, from a piece of wainscott to a lady's face.
SARA DUCHESS OF MARLBOROUGH, 22/9/1732
TO HER GRANDAUGHTER LADY JOHN RUSSELL
FURNITURE CREAM I
½ pint of turpentine
½ pint linseed oil
¼ pint methylated spirits
Put the ingredients into a bottle and always shake well before using. Apply lightly on a soft cloth. Excellent for mahogany and a deterrent to wood-worm.
FURNITURE CREAM II
1 oz. castile soap
1 oz. beeswax
1 oz. white wax
1 pint genuine turpentine
½ pint rainwater
Dissolve shredded soap in the rainwater in one pan. Shred the waxes into the turpentine in another pan, but do not let it get too hot. Pour warm soapy water into the turpentine, stirring until cool. Pour, when creamy, into wide-necked bottles. This makes 1½ pints of excellent polish.
FURNITURE CREAM III
½ pint raw linseed oil
½ pint old ale
2 oz. spirits of wine
1 oz. spirits of salt
¼ oz. camphor
To be used with old linen.
RECIPE BOOK, 1880
FURNITURE CREAM IV
6 oz. beeswax
1 oz. soap flakes or soft soap
1½ pints turpentine
1 pint boiling water
Put the beeswax and turpentine into a double saucepan and melt. Dissolve soap flakes in boiling water. When both mixtures are cool, mix together, adding only enough of the soap mixture to make a thick cream.
FURNITURE CREAM V
2 oz. beeswax
2 oz. white wax
2 oz. soft soap
1 pint turpentine
1 pint boiling water
Break up wax; put soft soap and wax into a large bowl and add I pint of turpentine. Leave for two days. Then pour on the boiling water. Leave it to get cold and then put it into jars and seal.

IMPORTANT NOTE:  Great care must be taken in melting down turpentine or beeswax, as both are highly inflammable. The method used in the above recipe is therefore strongly recommended.

FURNITURE REVIVER
Mix together in a bottle equal quantities of paraffin, methylated spirit, vinegar and turpentine. Shake well before using. Apply with a soft rag and rub well into the furniture.
TO WAX FURNITURE
In waxing it is important to make the coating as thin as possible in order that the veins of the wood may be clearly seen. Put 2 oz. each of white and of yellow wax over a moderate fire in a clean vessel and when quite melted add 4 oz. of best spirits of turpentine. Stir until entirely cool and you will have a pomade fit for waxing furniture. Apply according to the usual method. The oil soon penetrates the pores of the wood, bringing out the colour of it and causing the wax to adhere better. The polish may be renewed at any time by rubbing it with a fine cork.
TO REMOVE WHITE RINGS CAUSED BY HEAT OR WATER FROM POLISHED SURFACES I
Sprinkle with a little salt. Rub vigorously with a soft rag moistened with olive or salad oil. Polish with a soft dry cloth.
TO REMOVE MARKS FROM POLISHED SURFACES II
Put a little paraffin on the mark. Rub hard with a soft cloth. Pour on a few drops of spirits of wine and rub dry with another cloth.
TO REMOVE MARKS FROM POLISHED SURFACES III
Make a paste of washing blue and spread on heat or water mark. Leave on for at least three hours. Clean off and polish.
TO REMOVE SCRATCHES FROM FURNITURE I
Rub with a cork dipped in camphorated oil. Leave for a while and polish.
TO REMOVE SCRATCHES FROM FURNITURE II
Light scratches on furniture will disappear if rubbed with the kernel of a brazil nut.
TO REMOVE DENTS
Fold a piece of brown paper five or six times and saturate it in hot water. Place on the dented part and press with a hot flat-iron until all the moisture is evaporated from the paper when the dent will have disappeared.
This recipe gives no indication of the effect of this treatment oil the polish!
TO REMOVE INK STAINS FROM FURNITURE
Mix 6 drops of nitre with 2 teaspoonsful of water. Apply with a camel-hair brush and afterwards polish with a good furniture cream.
TO FILL SMALL HOLES IN FURNITURE
Melt in a double saucepan equal parts of beeswax and resin. While plastic, fill hole and smooth with fine sandpaper.
TO CLEAN MAHOGANY
Take one pint of cold linseed oil; put it into a jar.  Add to it 4 pennyworth of alcanet root and 2 pennyworth of rose pink.
Let it stand fourteen hours by the fire.  Use it with linen rags.  Don't let it lye many minutes without rubbing it off again.
N.B. The more elbow-grease the better.
OLD FAMILY RECEIPT BOOK, 1803
TO CLEAN AND GIVE GLOSS TO OLD OAK AND OAK WAINSCOT
2 quarts strong beer
1 oz. coarse moist sugar
1 oz. beeswax
If greasy, first wash with warm beer. Boil these ingredients together; when quite dissolved apply with a large soft brush; allow to dry; rub until surface is bright.
    NOTE Fresh beer is not necessary. Any left in glasses may be kept, well corked, in a stone bottle.
TO CLEAN WICKER FURNITURE
Wicker furniture that has become soiled and dusty will look like new if washed with a solution of salt and water, using a small scrubbing brush; rinse well.
TO CLEAN OLD LACE I
Fold carefully, sprinkling dry powdered magnesia between the folds. Leave for some days, when the magnesia will have absorbed most of the dirt.
TO CLEAN OLD LACE II
Sew lace in a clean piece of linen and lay it all night in salad oil. Next day boil in a large boiler of soapy water for a quarter of an hour and rinse in several waters. Dip into warm water in which a few lumps of sugar have been dissolved and pin on a cloth to dry.
TO TINT LACE
Steep it in one of the following liquors:
    1 Hay water: stew some hay seeds or a wisp of hay in water until the correct tint is obtained.
    2 Tea: use 2 oz. of tea to  pint of water.
TO REVIVE BLACK LACE
Wash thoroughly in some good beer; clap the lace well, after which pin it to a towel, according to its shape and when nearly dry, over it with another towel and iron it with a cool iron.
TO STIFFEN LACE
Steep it in rice or sugar water, about 2 lumps to the pint.
TO WASH A WHITE LACE VEIL
Put veil in a strong lather of white soap and very clear water 4 and let it simmer gently for a quarter of an hour. Take out and squeeze well but be sure not to rub it. Rinse twice in cold water, the second time with a touch of liquid blue. Have ready some very clear, weak gum arabic water, or thin starch, or rice water. Pass veil through it and clear it by clapping; then stretch it out evenly and pin it to dry on a linen cloth, making the edge as straight as possible and fastening any scallops with pins. When dry, lay a thin piece of muslin over it to iron, on the wrong side.
TO REMOVE STAINS FROM LINEN
Wine Stains Hold the article in milk while it is boiling and the marks will soon disappear.
Tea Stains One tablespoonful of turpentine to every bucketful of water in which the linen is boiled will remove tea stains.
Stains of any kind Let the cloth imbibe a little water without dipping, and hold the part over a lighted match at a due distance. The spots will be removed by the sulphurous gas.
OLD FAMILY RECIPE BOOK, 1850
MILDEWED LINEN I
Moisten stain and rub thickly with soap; sprinkle with french chalk; place in sunshine to bleach; repeat till stains disappear.
    If the above process fails, use a bleach.
MILDEWED LINEN II
Mildewed In linen may be restored by soaping the spots; while wet, cover them with fine chalk scraped to a powder; rub well in.
A BALL TO TAKE STAINS FROM LINEN
Take 4 oz. of hard white soap, beat it in a mortar with 2 small lemons sliced, and as much rocke allome as an hazel nut, roll it in a ball, rub the stains therewith, and after fetch it out with warme water if need be.
SIR HUGH PLATT, DELIGHTS FOR LADIES, 1609
TO CLEAN RUGS AND CARPETS I
Grate two raw potatoes into a basin containing a pint of cold water and allow to stand for a few minutes, when the water should be strained off Dip a rough sponge into the potato water and rub the rug all over, after which go over again with a cloth that has been wrung out in clear water. When rubbed dry, the rug will have recovered its freshness.
TO CLEAN RUGS AND CARPETS II
Take sufficient Fuller's Earth and mix it to a paste with boiling water. Spread this thickly over the stain and allow it to remain for twenty-four hours. Brush the paste off with a whisk and in most cases the stain will have disappeared. An old carpet that needs a thorough cleaning can be treated on the floor it occupies. Thoroughly brush all the dust and dirt out, shred half an ounce of soap into half a pint of boiling water, add a teaspoonful of ammonia and a small lump of soda, a small brush should be lightly dipped into this and the carpet well scrubbed; rinse this off by means of a cloth constantly wrung out in clean, warm water. Finally rub with a dry cloth.
TO CLEAN RUGS AND CARPETS III
Wash them in ox gall mixed in cold water, it will take spots out and make them look clean.
OLD RECEIPT BOOK, 1803
TAPESTRY
Warm some bran; rub well in several times, shake and brush well.
TO REMOVE STAINS FROM SILK I
Mix together 2 oz. Essence of lemon and 1 oz. oil of turpentine. Rub gently with a linen rag.
TO REMOVE STAINS FROM SILK II
Take a lump of magnesia and rub it wet on the spot of grease. Let it dry, then brush off.
TO REMOVE STAINS FROM SILK III
Iodine stains can be removed with methylated spirit, applied at once. Wash later with warm soapy water. This method can be used for other materials with good results.
WOOLLENS
Flannels and blankets will keep soft and will not shrink if a tablespoon of ammonia is added to the first washing water.
TO REMOVE COD-LIVER OIL FROM WOOLLENS, ESPECIALLY BABY CLOTHES
Soak the part stained with oil in a saucer into which some glycerine has been put. Leave over night. Next day rinse, either with soap and water, or water to which a little detergent has been added. Take some carbon tetrachloride on a clean piece of cloth or sponge and work in a ring towards the middle of the stain, always from the outside to the middle. This may need patience. The garment must then be washed in warm, soapy water.
TO TAKE THE SHINE OUT OF NAVY BLUE WOOLLEN MATERIALS
Boil a handful of ivy leaves in half a pint of water for a few minutes; when cold lightly rub over the shine with a clean piece of cloth.
TO KEEP WOOLLENS SMOOTH
To remove those tiresome bobbles which form on baby's woollens or on jumpers or cardigans, brush with a wet nail brush.
WOOLLENS
When pressing pleats or trouser creases, arrange them between newspaper; the natural moisture in the newsprint is sufficient to make a good impress.
STAINS
Always remove stains as soon as possible and before washing. If the material will stand it, boiling water poured through the stain while it is still wet, will often remove tea, coffee, fruit and other stains.
    The following are recommended for specific stains:
Blood:    soak in cold, salt water.
Creosote:    (i) cotton and linen materials. Soak in methylated spirit. Wash in cool soapy water.
                (ii) tweeds and woollens.  As above, but brush well when dry and rinse in tepid water.  If obstinate wash in warm soapy water.
Grass:    methylated spirits; if it remains stubborn, soak overnight in glycerine.
Iodine:    methylated spirits.
ink:        (i) for dry stains, salts of lemon and boiling water.
            (ii) for wet stains, soak in buttermilk (if available) or lemon juice and salt.
Red Ink:    soak in water and vinegar; wash and boil with washing soda.
Iron mould:    (i) salts of lemon and boiling water;
                    (ii) steep in the juice of a stick of rhubarb; do not add sugar and use very hot.
Greasy hat bands:     rub with oil of eucalyptus.
Tar:    rub with paraffin or lard; wash with soap and water.
Paint:    rub with turpentine or paraffin; remove grease mark with benzene or some similar preparation.
EUCALYPTUS OIL will remove tar stains from any material. It will also take adhesive plaster marks from the skin.
TO CEMENT BROKEN CHINA I
Beat lime to the most impalpable powder; sift it through fine muslin; tie some into a thin muslin bag; put onto the edge of the broken china some white of egg; quickly dust some lime on the same and unite the edges at once.
TO CEMENT BROKEN CHINA II
Dissolve some isinglass in a small quantity of brandy or gin or spirits of wine by a very gentle heat. Preserve it in a bottle for use.
TO CEMENT BROKEN CHINA III
Dissolve isinglass two parts and the same of gum arabic in like manner as the preceding.
TO CEMENT BROKEN CHINA IV
A liquid glue: 1/4 oz. of gum arabic dissolved in 2 oz. of distilled vinegar.
DIAMOND CEMENT FOR MENDING CHINA
Quarter oz. of isinglass dissolved in water by boiling it as thick as cream; add one tablespoonful of spirits of wine. Use this mixture warm.
FROM A VARIETY OF OLD FAMILY RECIPE BOOKS
CLEANING BOTTLES
Narrow-necked bottles may be cleaned by the use of finely sieved coal ashes. Shake well, until the glass is quite clear. Rinse thoroughly. A small piece of charcoal left in a bottle will soon remove any disagreeable smells.
CLEANING DECANTERS
Cover some eggshells with lemon juice and stand for forty-eight hours. The eggshell will be dissolved; pour into decanter, shaking occasionally.
TO REMOVE STAINS FROM GLASS AND OLD ESTABLISHED STAINS FROM VASES ETC.
Cut up potato in small pieces and place in the glass article to be cleaned. Swish round and round in cold water until the stains are removed.
LOOKING GLASSES
Sponge the surface with equal parts of gin and water. Dust with powder blue and polish well with an old silk handkerchief.
EVERYDAY COOKERY AND HOUSEKEEPING, MRS BEETON, 1859
TO CLEAN BRASS AND COPPER I
Vinegar and salt, but none must be left in the crevices.
TO CLEAN BRASS AND COPPER II
Pulverised rotten stone, mixed with turpentine. Apply with washleather, leave for a few minutes and wipe with a soft cloth.
SILVER
A charged silver doth may be prepared by immersing a soft cloth or a piece of turkish towelling in one of the mixtures set out below. The cloth should be well saturated and hung tip to dry, without wringing or squeezing, and preferably in the open air. Wash the silver in hot soapy water, and dry it with the prepared cloth. When this becomes soiled, it may be washed and dried, and then recharged with the mixture. If this is made in sufficient quantity the surplus not absorbed may be returned to a bottle and used again and again. Silver washed and dried in this way should not need to be polished, but may be rubbed occasionally with a washleather.
SILVER I
½ oz soap flakes
½ pint hot water
2 oz. whiting
1 oz. ammonium carbonate or 2 tablespoonsful ammonia
Dissolve soap flakes in hot water and allow it to cool. Add ammonium carbonate and whiting and sufficient water to make a pint. Shake well and leave overnight.
SILVER II
¼ lb. rock ammonia
1 eggcupful whiting
1 pint boiling water
Crush ammonia, add whiting and pour over boiling water. When ammonia is dissolved add a little cold water; immerse turkish towelling squares in the liquid arid dry off.
SILVER III
Mix in a bowl a tablespoonful of plate powder, 2 tablespoonsful of liquid ammonia, half a teacupful of warm water.
TO CLEAN TABLE SILVER I
2 teaspoonsful common soda
1 teaspoonful salt
2 pints of very hot water
Use an old aluminium saucepan or bowl. Put in the silver, rinse it, in hot water and dry it at once.
NOTE The receptacle must be aluminium, but a new one would be damaged by the soda.
TO CLEAN TABLE SILVER II
Silver plate and pewter may be cleaned with vinegar and whitening.

SILVER OR PLATE POWDER

½ lb. precipitated whitening
¼ oz. jeweller's rouge
Sieve together until the powder is evenly coloured. Store in small tins or jars.
TO CLEAN SILVER PLATE AND BRASS
Boil an ounce of prepared hartshorn powder in a quart of water; while on the fire, put into it as much plate as the vessel will hold; let it boil a little, then take it out, drain it over the saucepan, and dry it before the fire. Put in more and serve the same, till you have done. Then put into the water some clean linen rags, till all be soaked up. When dry they will serve to clean the plate and are the very best things to clean the brass-locks and finger plates of doors. When the plate is quite dry it must be rubbed bright with a leather. This is a very nice mode.
DOMESTIC COOKERY, BY A LADY, 1864
TO CLEAN POLISHED-STEEL ARTICLES
Boil slowly 1 lb. of soft soap in 2 quarts of water to I quart. In this jelly take 3 or 4 spoonsful and mix to a consistence with emery; rub the steel articles well with the mixture on a bit of broadcloth. When this is removed wipe them well and polish with glass paper, not sandpaper.
RECIPE BOOK, 1848
TO CLEAN AND PRESERVE LEATHER UPHOLSTERY I
Boil half a pint of linseed oil for one minute. Stand until nearly cold. Pour in half a pint of vinegar and stir well. Bottle and shake before using. Apply a little on a flannel and rub well into the leather. Rub with a soft duster until the polish is restored. This treatment softens the leather and prevents cracking.
TO CLEAN AND PRESERVE LEATHER UPHOLSTERY II
Wash the leather with warm water to which has been added a teaspoonful of vinegar, using a new sponge; dry with a soft chamois leather. Put the whites of 2 eggs and 2 teaspoonsful of turpentine into a basin, whisk well, and rub into the dry leather with a piece of flannel. Dry with clean linen.
A POLISH FOR LEATHER UPHOLSTERY, BROWN BOOTS OR FURNITURE
3 oz. beeswax
1 oz. white wax
1 oz. castile soap
1 pint turpentine
1 pint cold water
Shred the wax into the turpentine to dissolve; shred the soap into boiling water; when only just warm, add it to the wax and turpentine and mix well. This is best kept and shaken occasionally before use.
TO POLISH PATENT LEATHER
One part of linseed oil to two parts of cream. Warm both and mix thoroughly. Apply with a flannel and polish with a dry silk duster.
TO CLEAN LEATHER BAGS
These may be cleaned by dipping a sponge into warm water in which a little oxalic acid has been dissolved.
TO POLISH BROWN BOOTS AND SHOES
These may be polished with the inside of a banana skin.
TO MAKE BOOTS WATERPROOF
Melt two parts of beeswax with one part of mutton fat. Blend thoroughly. Rub on sides and uppers. Best applied slightly warm.
WELLINGTON BOOTS
A clothes peg will hold a pair of wellington boots together and keep them standing firmly in place instead of failing over untidily. It keeps them from cracking their tops.

The Family Wash

They that wash on Monday have all the week to dry;
They that wash on Tuesday are not so much awry;
They that wash on Wednesday are not so much to blame;
They that wash on Thursday wash for shame;
They that wash on Friday wash in need;
They that wash on Saturday are sluts indeed.
NURSERY RHYME
WASHING HINTS - FLANNEL
Two teaspoonsful of glycerine should be added to hot water when washing flannel.
WASHING HINTS - SILK
When washing silks add a little methylated spirits to the rinsing water. It will preserve the sheen appearance of silk when it is new.
WASHING HINTS LINEN AND COTTON
To prevent linen and cotton articles from turning yellow, wrap them in a cloth that has been over-blued. This will keep them white for years.
IRONING HINT
Tie some beeswax into a piece of flannel. Rub it against the flat surface and the sides of the iron and polish with a duster. This will prevent rust and will give a very smooth surface.
JAVELLE WATER for removing mildew, bleaching, etc.
¼ lb. chloride of lime
2 oz. washing soda
1 quart cold water
1 pint boiling water
Pour the cold water on the chloride of lime in an earthenware bowl or stone jam-jar. Dissolve the soda in boiling water. Allow the chloride of lime to stand overnight; strain through muslin. Pour the soda solution onto the chloride solution and a powder is precipitated. Strain off the clear liquid.
Use half warm water and half javelle water, adding a little vinegar. Soak the clothes for half to three-quarters of an hour.
This solution should be diluted ten times for use with cold water for linens and cottons. It must NEVER be applied to woollens and silks.
TOILET SOAP
I used your soap two years ago: since when I have used no other.
PUNCH, 1884


Dissolve 1 can of soda lye in 2 1/2 pints of boiling water. When the mixture is cold, add it very gradually to 5 lb. of clarified mutton fat, the tallow barely melted Stir steadily. Add 4 oz. glycerine, ½ oz. of oil of lavender, and 2 tablespoonsful of powdered borax. Continue stirring till the mixture is as thick as honey. Pour into shallow boxes lined with oiled paper. When cold, cut into bars.

SPERMACETI SOAP
1 lb. of caustic potash lye
1 lb. pure lard
¾ lb. of oil of bitter almonds
¾ lb. spermaceti
Add the lard, bitter almonds and spermaceti to the caustic potash; melt and mix. Heat until disappearance of alkali. Rub in a mortar with 1/8 oz. spirits of wine; perfume with ½ oz. essence of bitter almonds.
HOUSEHOLD SOAP I
6½ lb. salt free fat
1 lb. caustic soda
3 pints water
Make according to the instructions on the caustic soda tin. This quantity will make about 14 lb. of soap at a very low cost. Mutton fat is the firmest but other waste fats can be used after clarifying. A little borax, olive oil, or paraffin may be added. The secret of making a smooth soap is to blend the two solutions slowly at the same low temperature. Stir until the mixture looks like honey and after pouring it into a small sink or shallow pan, leave in a warm room for twenty-four hours. Cut into bars and dry for at least a month before using.
HOUSEHOLD SOAP II
1 lb. fat
1 lb. soda
¼ lb. quick lime
1 gallon water
Boil for seven hours; pour into large tins to set.
CARPET SOAP
Shred 2 oz. of common soap, pour over it 2 pints of boiling water. Add 3 tablespoonsful of ammonia and ½ oz. of washing soda. Store in jars or tins. Lather with hot water and apply to carpets with a brush or cloth. Rinse with clean water.
HOME-MADE WASHING POWDER
½ lb. powdered soap
1 lb. soda crystals
¼ lb. sal ammoniac
Dry the soda crystals well in an oven then mix all well together.
A MAGIC CLEANSER
Shred finely 4 oz. of castile soap. Pour over it 5 pints of boiling rain water. Add ¾ oz. saltpetre. Boil all together until the soap is dissolved. Cool and add ½ pint of ammonia. Bottle and cork tightly immediately. An excellent cleanser for all kinds of fabrics, it removes spots and grease and does not harm colour. If mixed with whitening it cleans metals and windows, and is a good white shoe cleaner.
HOUSEHOLD SOAP I
Make according to the instructions on the caustic soda tin. This quantity will make about 14 lb. of soap at a very low cost. Mutton fat is the firmest but other waste fats can be used after clarifying. A little borax, olive oil, or paraffin may be added. The secret of making a smooth soap is to blend the two solutions slowly at the same low temperature. Stir until the mixture looks like honey and after pouring it into a small sink or shallow pan, leave in a warm room for twenty-four hours. Cut into bars and dry for at least a month before using.

HOUSEHOLD SOAP II

1 lb. fat
1 lb. soda
¼ lb. quick lime
1 gallon water
Boil for seven hours; pour into large tins to set.
CARPET SOAP
Shred 2 oz. of common soap, pour over it 2 pints of boiling water. Add 3 tablespoonsful of ammonia and ½ oz. of washing soda. Store in jars or tins. Lather with hot water and apply to carpets with a brush or cloth. Rinse with clean water.
HOME-MADE WASHING POWDER
½ lb. powdered soap
1 lb. soda crystals
¼ lb. sal ammoniac
Dry the soda crystals well in an oven then mix all well together.
A MAGIC CLEANSER
Shred finely 4 oz. of castile soap. Pour over it 5 pints of boiling rain water. Add ¾ oz. saltpetre. Boil all together until the soap is dissolved. Cool and add ½ pint of ammonia. Bottle and cork tightly immediately. An excellent cleanser for all kinds of fabrics, it removes spots and grease and does not harm colour. If mixed with whitening it cleans metals and windows, and is a good white shoe cleaner.
SCRUBBING PASTE
1 lb. silver sand
1 lb. soft soap
1 lb. whitening
1½ pints cold water
Mix the ingredients in an old saucepan or tin. Simmer on a low heat until it is thick and creamy (about one hour). Stir occasionally while cooking and cooling. Use as for soap, rinsing carefully where wood is stained.

Pests that Crawl and Fly

I was once in the Tower, and viewed the wardrobe, and there was a great many fine clothes: (I can give them no other title, for I was never either linen or woollen draper) yet as brave as they looked, my opinion was that the moths might consume them; moths are under the dominion of Mars; this herb Wormwood being laid among cloaths will make a moth scorn to meddle with the cloaths, as much as a lion scorns to meddle with a mouse, or an eagle with a fly.
THE COMPLETE HERBAL, BY NICHOLAS CULPEPER, 1653


To keep away beetles and all kinds of insects add a little paraffin to the water when washing hearths and doorsteps.

ANTS I
Sprinkle a little flowers of sulphur on shelves and in cupboards.
ANTS II
Dissolve 2 oz. of tartar emetic in a tablespoonful of water and add a teaspoonful of sugar. Set the mixture in an open shallow dish where ants are troublesome.
FLIES I
A very old-fashioned remedy is to plant an elder bush by the kitchen door.
FLIES II
Dip a small sponge in boiling water. Pour on this a few drops of oil of lavender. This will give off a delicious perfume which flies do not like. Moisten the sponge with boiling water twice a day, but with the oil not more than once a week.
FLIES III
Mix one teaspoonful of black pepper and 2 teaspoonsful of moist sugar in a tablespoonful of milk. Set the saucer in any convenient place.
FLIES IV
Boil 3 oz. of quassia chips in ½ pint of water or dissolve 2 drachms of extract of quassia in ½ pint of boiling water. Sweeten with sugar and pour it into plates and set them in various parts of the room. This mixture though fatal to flies is not injurious to animals. Quassia water prepared as above but without the sugar may be applied to cupboards, drawers or window sashes. It will keep away all insects.
RECIPE BOOK, 1848
HOME-MADE FLY PAPER
5 tablespoonsful of castor oil
8 tablespoonsful of resin


Heat oil, pour it over the resin, stirring until it is dissolved. Spread on thick white paper.

POMANDER
Cloves, or an orange stuck with cloves, i.e. a Pomander, will keep away flies.
BEETLES I
Cucumber rind is known to be a safe method of getting rid of beetles. Cut it in slices and place at their holes and it will drive them away.
BEETLES II
Ordinary lime (unslaked) used perfectly dry. Crush it very fine, and spread it where the beetles are likely to be.
MOTHS I
Many and various are the methods recommended for keeping away moths.

Equal parts of oil of camphor and spirits of turpentine. Soak a piece of blotting paper in the mixture and put it in a drawer on top of the clothes.

MOTHS II
Take one drachm of oil of cloves and half a drachm of oil of caraway, to which add one gill of the best gin or whiskey, and also a piece of camphor the size of a walnut; let the whole remain together for twenty-four hours. With this sprinkle the goods, fold them immediately and put away.
THE ENGLISHWOMAN' S DOMESTIC MAGAZINE, 1854
MOTHS III
Shavings of cedar wood or cedar dust in muslin bags, placed in cupboards or drawers.
MOTHS IV
To destroy moth eggs, use a solution of acetate of potash in of rosemary, 15 grains to the pint.
MOTH POWDER
One pound of crushed crystals of paradichlorobenzine mixed with one handful each of dried and crumbled (not powdered) thyme, rosemary, tansy, lavender, southernwood (Old Man), and one tablespoonful of crushed cloves. This should be put into sachets for putting into drawers, cupboards, or among blankets.
TO PREVENT THE BITES OF GNATS AND MIDGES
2 oz. quassia chips
1 pint water
Bring slowly to the boil. Simmer for twenty minutes. Strain and bottle. This solution may be applied to any parts of the skin exposed to attacks of insects. It is harmless to the complexion, and make-up can be used as usual. The mixture gives protection for the whole day.

An Abracadabra of Good Advice

Some respite to husbands the weather may send,
But the housewives affairs have never an end.
PREFACE TO THE BOOK OF HOUSEWIFERY, BY THOMAS TUSSER, 1580
A STRONG ADHESIVE PASTE
Take ½ lb. of glue; dissolve it with old beer and boil it in a glue pot till it turns quite thick.
BENJAMIN HAYWARD, 1830
A STRONG PASTE FOR PAPER
To two large spoonsful of flour put as much powdered resin as will lie on a shilling. Mix with as much strong beer as will make it of a due consistance and boil half an hour. Let it be cold before it is used.
THE ENGLISHWOMEN'S DOMESTIC MAGAZINE, 1854
ROMAN CEMENT FOR OUTSIDE PLASTERING
Take 84 lb. of drift sand, 12 lb. of unslaked lime and 4 lb. of the poorest cheese, grated through an iron grater. When well mixed add enough hot, but not boiling, water to make into a proper consistence. The wall or lath work should be covered first with hair and lime mortar and well dried. This was used by the Ancients and is now adopted among us. The Suffolk cheese does better than any other in this country.
TO RENDER CLOTHING NON-INFLAMMABLE
One ounce of alum added to rinsing water will make clothes almost non-inflammable. They will only smoulder very slowly. The same method may be used for stage curtains and properties.
TO MAKE COAL LAST LONGER I
Half a teaspoonful of saltpetre, mixed in a cupful of water and poured over a scuttle of coal will make it last much longer.
TO MAKE COAL LAST LONGER II
A good handful of common soda, dissolved in half a bucketful of warm water and thrown over a hundredweight of coal and allowed to dry will increase the burning power of coal by twenty-five per cent.
TO DISINFECT DUSTBINS
Burn an old newspaper inside the empty dustbin immediately after the dustman's visit. It not only cleans the bin but leaves it perfectly dry.
TO IMPROVE GILDING
Alum and common salt, of each 1 oz., purified with 2 oz. of water, ¼ oz. vinegar.  This much improves the colour of gilt articles, it being applied with a soft brush.
OLD RECIPE BOOK
GLOVES
Chamois leather gloves should be washed on the hands, in tepid water to which a tablespoonful of olive oil should be added. Use a good quality oily soap. Rinse well, still on the hands, in soapy water as this will keep them soft. Squeeze gently, never wring. Hang the gloves to dry on glove stretchers or if there are no glove stretchers available blow hard into each glove while it is wet. Dry very slowly. This will help to keep the shape.

Fabric gloves may be washed in tepid, soapy water. Rinse well in clear water and dry as for chamois leather.

FELT HATS
Put a bowl or basin inside the hat and rub all over with ink eraser.
IVORY
Methylated spirits will clean and improve the colour of ivory. It must be applied with linen rags and wiped off at once.
JEWELRY
Simple jewelry, such as brooches or rings, can be cleaned with eau-de-cologne, applied with a very soft rag, and rubbed gently with a piece of chamois leather.
TO COOL LIQUOR IN HOT WEATHER
Dip a cloth in cold water. Wrap it two or three times round the bottle; then place it in the sun. Repeat this process twice.
OLD RECIPE BOOK, 1800
MACKINTOSHES
A mackintosh which has become hard may be cleaned thus: dissolve a handful of grey lime in half a pail of water and apply to the stiff parts with a small sponge.
MICE
The smell of peppermint is most obnoxious to mice; a few drops of oil of peppermint will soon drive them away.
ONIONS
To remove the smell of onions from the hands, put some mustard powder on the hands when dry; rub in well and rinse off. A little salt in the water is also a good way of ridding the hands of strong food smells.
PURIFYING ROOMS
This method will remove the smell of cooking: soak a few pieces of brown paper in saltpetre water and allow them to dry. When required, a piece of this should be laid in a tin pan or in a coal scuttle; lay a handful of dried lavender flowers upon it and apply a match. The aroma is refreshing and agreeable. A few drops of oil of lavender in a glass of very hot water will purify the air of a room almost instantly.
SLUGS
Cabbage leaves heated until soft, either before the fire or in the oven should be rubbed with unsalted butter or fresh dripping Lay them in places infested by slugs. In a few hours the leaves will be covered with slugs which may be collected and destroyed.
SPONGES
Slimy sponges may be washed in a solution of water to which has been added either lemon juice, vinegar, or ammonia. Rinse well in warm water and dry on rack.
STEEL WOOL
To prevent steel wool from becoming rusty, keep it, when not in use, in a jar containing one cupful of water to which three tablespoonsful of bicarbonate of soda have been added. An alternative is to keep the steel wool in strong soapy water.
SUEDE COATS
The surface may be freshened by the use of a very fine wire brush, used gently or it will damage the leather. Spots may be removed by rubbing with a piece of art-gum. Fine sandpaper is an alternative to the wire brush.
TEAPOTS AND JUGS
A lump of sugar in a teapot, or any such closed vessel, will keep it sweet for a long time.
IRON TANKS
To mend a leaky iron tank, mix equal parts of yellow soap and whitening into a stiff paste. Fill the holes with the paste, which sets very hard, and it will last a long time.
AUSTRALIA

Household Reciepts of Past Ages

A DELICATE CANDLE FOR A LADIES' TABLE
Cause your Dutch candles to be dipped in Virgin wax so as their last coat may be thereby wax and this means you may carry them in your hand without melting and the sent of the yellow tallow not break through to give offence, but if you would have them to resemble yellow wax candles then first let the tallow be coloured with turmericke boiled therein, and strained, and after your candles have been dipped therein to a sufficient greatness, let them take their last coat from yellow wax, this may be done in a great round can of tin plate, having a bottom, and being somewhat deeper than the length of your candle; and as the wax spendeth, you may still supply it with more.
DELIGHTS OF LADIES, SIR HUGH PLATT, 1609
HOW TO HELPE YOUR BOTTLES WHEN THEY ARE MUSTIE
Some put them in an oven when the bread is newly drawne, closing up the oven, and so let them rest till the morning. Others content themselves with scaulding them in hot liquor onely till they are sweet.
DELIGHTS OF LADIES, SIR HUGH PLATT
HOW TO KEEPE FLYES FROM OILE PEECES
An Italian concepte both for tile rareness and use thereof doth please me above all other: viz: Pricke a cowcumber full of barley corns with the small spring ends outwards, make little holes in the cowcumber first with a wooden or bone bodkin, and after put in tile grain, these being thick placed will in time cover all the cowcumber so as no man can discerne what strange plant the same should be. Such cowcumbers to be hung up in the middest of summer rooms to drawe all the flies unto them, which otherwise would flie upon the pictures or hangings.
DELIGHTS OF LADIES, SIR HUGH PLATT
CLEANING PEWTER
'For your plaites if they are well washed every mealle with woater and brann, soe hott as theare hands can indewar it, then
rinsed in faire woater and so sett one by one befoare the fire, as thay may dry quick, I am confident they will dry without
spots, for I never knew any sawce staine soe except it be pickled rabbits, which stand up on the plait awhile, soe they will
stoane them filthily . . . This is all the scill I have.'
MRS MARGARET ELMES, IN A LETTER TO HER
BROTHER, SIR RALPH VERNEY OF CLAYDON, IN
REPLY TO A REQUEST FOR ADVICE ON CLEANING
HIS PEWTER DINNER SERVICE, 1645
TO MAKE PERFUMED LIGHTS
Take sweet olive oil one pound, Benjamin, Storax in powder, one ounce, Musk, Ambergrise, of each one scruple, mix with
the oil, which put into a lamp to burn: and the oil will yield a fragrant odour.
POLYGRAPHICES, BY WILLIAM SALMON, 30 MARCH 1685
THE FRENCH QUEEN'S PERFUME
First burn chips of Cypress in the Chamber a pretty while, the doors and windows being shut. Then take Damask Rose water
a pint: white Sugar Candy an ounce: Put them in a perfuming pan and let them boyl softly in the embers.
POLYGRAPHICES, WILLIAM SALMON
TO MAKE THE BEST AND STRONGEST GLEW
Take scummed milk, which has stood so long that no more cream will arise from it; scum it very clean, and set it over the
Fire in a Leaden Pot, letting it boyl a little: and in any Cream arise, take it off then put into it a sufficient quantity of glew, cut
into little bits, which will soon melt: boyl it to a good body, that it be neither too thick nor too thin, (for in this boyling lyes
much of Art;) then take it from the fire and use it as you do other glew. Where Note: that this glew binds beyond belief, and
will not be subject to resolve in any ordinary moisture of the Weather; and the reason is, because the curdy part of the Milk
freed of its oyl, is joyned with the glew.
POLYGRAPHICES, BY WILLIAM SALMON
ANOTHER KIND OF STRONG GLEW FOR PIPES AND AQUEDUCTS
Tobaco pipe clay, dryed and reduced to powder, and mixt with good store of short flocks, and beat up with Linseed Oyl to a stiff Paste, like kneaded Dough, makes a strong and lasting cement for Pipes and Aqueducts: and being made into Pipes, (though long a drying) is very stanch and lasting.
POLYGRAPHICES, BY WILLIAM SALMON
POWDER TO LAY AMONG LINNEN
Take Calamus Aromaticus, Florentine Iris roots, of each two ounces, Violet flowers dried one ounce, round Cypress roote two drachms, adeps Rosaeum one drachm and a half, reduce all to a very fine powder: it is excellent to lay among linnen, or to strew in the hair.
POLYGRAPHICES, BY WILLIAM SALMON
TO KILL INSECTS
Lime... new powdered 20 lbs.
Basket salt 4 lbs.
Scotch small snuff 4 lbs.
Viv: sulphur 4 lbs.
Mix them well together, making it weaker or stronger with snuff as you see necessary. Then take a puff and dust it over the hedges, trees, plants etc., not too thick, in the evening or before rain. A quantity as large as the above will destroy more than a Parish will gather in one week. One dusting before the insects are got with life, and another seven or eight days after the first will answer effectually. It will kill worms, snails, beetles, ants, etc.
MANUSCRIPT BOOK, 1775
METHOD OF RESTORING AND RENDERING LEGIBLE DAMAGED PARCHMENTS, DEEDS ETC.
When a parchment deed becomes discoloured and obliterated by moisture, immerse it in cold spring water as it is drawn from the well, for about a minute and then press it between two sheets of blotting paper, to prevent it shrivelling up while drying. It lvill generally, when nearly dry, be found to have resumed its original colour and appear uniformly alike; but should the characters not prove quite legible on its being nearly dry the operation must be repeated till they do.
FAMILY RECEIPT BOOK, 1800
TO MAKE OBLITERATED OR SUNK WRITING IMMEDIATELY LEGIBLE
Bruise or infuse 2 or 3 nutgalls in ½ pint of white wine and let the bottle stand in the sun or other warm place, then wash that part of the parchment or paper which is wanted to have the writing recovered with a sponge or soft brush dipped in the vinous infusion; and the purpose will be immediately answered, if it be sufficiently strong.
FAMILY RECEIPT BOOK, 1800
TRACING PAPER
Dissolve two ounces of true Canada Balsam in 4 ozs. of Spirits of Turpentine, in a basin: spread out a quire of the best silver (not tissue) paper and, with a clean brush, (called by painters a ground tool,) pass over the upper sheet of the paper with the varnish, and with the same brush, (scraped dry against the basin) rub the varnish into the paper; then turn the sheet over and rub it with the dry brush. When the upper sheet is well anointed, hang it to dry over a pack thread, about 12 hours. Proceed with the others.
ANOTHER FAMILY RECEIPT BOOK, ABOUT 1820
TO PREVENT THE SMOKING OF A LAMP
Soak the wick in strong vinegar, and well dry it before you use it: It will then burn both sweet and pleasant, and give much satisfaction for the trifling trouble.
FAMILY RECEIPT BOOK, 1820
THE FRENCH METHOD OF POLISHING WOOD
Take a piece of fine pumice stone and water, and pass regularly over the work, until the rising of the grain is cut down: then take the powdered Tripoli and boiled Linseed Oil and polish the work to a bright face, which will be far superior to any other polish: but it requires much more time.
FAMILY RECEIPT BOOK, 1820
TO POLISH IVORY
Ivory is polished with putty and water, by means of a rubber, made up hot: which in a short time produces a fine gloss.
FAMILY RECEIPT BOOK, 1820
TO PRESERVE BOOKS
A few drops of any perfumed oil will secure libraries from the consuming effects of mould and damp. Russian leather, which is perfumed with the tar of birch tree, never moulders; and merchants suffer large bales of this leather to remain in the London docks, knowing that it cannot sustain any injury from damp. This manner of preserving books with perfumed oils was known to the Ancients. The Romans used oil of cedar to preserve valuable manuscripts.
THE ENGLISHWOMAN'S DOMESTIC MAGAZINE, 1853
TO CLEAN BLOND LACE
Detach the blond from the caul, but not from the quilling of a cap. Fold it evenly in four lengths, if scalloped at the edge, and take care that the scallops lap over each other. Tack it evenly, first along the scalloped edge, next where it joins the quilling. Wet it in cold, soft, water, soap it well with common soap, yellow or white, taking care that there is no gravelly roughness in the soap: lather lightly, and do not rub too hard. If very dirty, use two or three waters, repeating the process of lathering. Rinse it finally in cold soft water, and when quite free from soap, dip in water slightly blued with smalt, commonly called powder-blue, with three or four small lumps of white sugar dissolved in it. Squeeze it, then lay it between the folds of a cloth, pull the tacking threads out, and unfold: then iron it before it is dry. The iron must not be plied lengthwise, but in short strokes from the quilling to the scallop, or edge fit is not scalloped. Next detach the blond from the quilling, and finally pass the iron lightly along the blond, without straining it; roll it on a card ready for use.
THE ENGLISHWOMAN'S DOMESTIC MAGAZINE, 1853
A RECEIPT TO CURE A COLD
Put the sleeve of a shirt, with an arm in it, round your neck and take essence of twolips. N.B. To be applied constantly. It has never been known to fail!
FAMILY RECEIPT BOOK, 1803
Put off your cares with your garments, whether they be public or private, so that you may sleep better, but resume them in the morning.
SCHOOL OF SALERNE, OR A DIET FOR THE HEALTHFUL,
SIR JOHN HARINGTON, 1625 

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Last Updated: 9 Apr. 2009