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POLISH
& SHINE
Please read the warning, no guarantee is
given for any recipes.
Contents
-
Foreword
-
WARNING
-
Donate
-
The House
-
FLOOR POLISH I
-
FLOOR POLISH II
-
FLOOR POLISH III
-
LINOLEUM I
-
LINOLEUM II
-
BRICK AND TILE
FLOORS
-
TILES AND STEPS
-
MARBLE FIREPLACES
-
MARBLE
-
STONE HALLS
AND FLOORS
-
PAINT ON
WOODWORK AND WALLS I
-
PAINT ON
WOODWORK AND WALLS II
-
FOR PAINTED
WALLS
-
PAINT WORK
-
WHITE PAINT
-
BATHS I
-
BATHS II
-
BOILERS
-
WHITE ENAMEL
COOKERS
-
CHIMNEYS I
-
CHIMNEYS II
-
SOME
OLD METHODS OF CLEANING CHIMNEYS
-
WINDOWS I
-
WINDOWS II
-
WINDOWS III
-
WINDOWS IV
-
The Contents
of the House
-
FURNITURE CREAM
I
-
FURNITURE CREAM
II
-
FURNITURE CREAM
III
-
FURNITURE CREAM
IV
-
FURNITURE CREAM
V
-
FURNITURE REVIVER
-
TO WAX FURNITURE
-
TO REMOVE WHITE RINGS CAUSED BY HEAT OR WATER
FROM
-
TO REMOVE MARKS FROM POLISHED SURFACES II
-
TO REMOVE MARKS FROM POLISHED SURFACES III
-
TO
REMOVE SCRATCHES FROM FURNITURE I
-
TO
REMOVE SCRATCHES FROM FURNITURE II
-
TO REMOVE DENTS
-
TO
REMOVE INK STAINS FROM FURNITURE
-
TO FILL
SMALL HOLES IN FURNITURE
-
TO CLEAN
MAHOGANY
-
TO CLEAN AND GIVE GLOSS TO OLD OAK AND OAK
-
TO CLEAN
WICKER FURNITURE
-
TO CLEAN OLD
LACE I
-
TO CLEAN OLD
LACE II
-
TO TINT LACE
-
TO REVIVE BLACK
LACE
-
TO STIFFEN LACE
-
TO
WASH A WHITE LACE VEIL
-
TO
REMOVE STAINS FROM LINEN
-
MILDEWED LINEN I
-
MILDEWED LINEN
II
-
A
BALL TO TAKE STAINS FROM LINEN
-
TO
CLEAN RUGS AND CARPETS I
-
TO
CLEAN RUGS AND CARPETS II
-
TO
CLEAN RUGS AND CARPETS III
-
TAPESTRY
-
TO
REMOVE STAINS FROM SILK I
-
TO
REMOVE STAINS FROM SILK II
-
TO REMOVE
STAINS FROM SILK III
-
WOOLLENS
-
TO REMOVE COD-LIVER OIL FROM WOOLLENS, , ESPECIALLY
BABY CLOTHES
-
TO TAKE THE SHINE OUT OF NAVY BLUE WOOLLEN
-
TO KEEP
WOOLLENS SMOOTH
-
WOOLLENS
-
STAINS
-
TO CEMENT
BROKEN CHINA I
-
TO
CEMENT BROKEN CHINA II
-
TO
CEMENT BROKEN CHINA III
-
TO
CEMENT BROKEN CHINA IV
-
DIAMOND
CEMENT FOR MENDING CHINA
-
CLEANING BOTTLES
-
CLEANING
DECANTERS
-
TO REMOVE STAINS FROM GLASS AND OLD ESTABLISHED
-
LOOKING GLASSES
-
TO
CLEAN BRASS AND COPPER I
-
TO
CLEAN BRASS AND COPPER II
-
SILVER
-
SILVER I
-
SILVER II
-
SILVER III
-
TO CLEAN
TABLE SILVER I
-
TO CLEAN
TABLE SILVER II
-
SILVER OR
PLATE POWDER
-
TO CLEAN
SILVER PLATE AND BRASS
-
TO
CLEAN POLISHED STEEL ARTICLES
-
TO CLEAN AND PRESERVE LEATHER UPHOLSTERY I
-
TO CLEAN AND PRESERVE LEATHER UPHOLSTERY II
-
A POLISH FOR LEATHER UPHOLSTERY, BROWN BOOTS OR
-
TO POLISH
PATENT LEATHER
-
TO CLEAN
LEATHER BAGS
-
TO
POLISH BROWN BOOTS AND SHOES
-
TO MAKE
BOOTS WATERPROOF
-
WELLINGTON BOOTS
-
The Family Wash
-
WASHING
HINTS - FLANNEL
-
WASHING HINTS -
SILK
-
WASHING HINTS
LINEN AND COTTON
-
IRONING HINT
-
JAVELLE WATER
-
TOILET SOAP
-
SPERMACETI SOAP
-
HOUSEHOLD SOAP I
-
HOUSEHOLD SOAP
II
-
CARPET SOAP
-
HOME-MADE
WASHING POWDER
-
A MAGIC CLEANSER
-
SCRUBBING PASTE
-
Pests that
Crawl and Fly
-
ANTS I
-
ANTS II
-
FLIES I
-
FLIES II
-
FLIES III
-
FLIES IV
-
HOME-MADE FLY
PAPER
-
POMANDER
-
BEETLES I
-
MOTHS I
-
MOTHS II
-
MOTHS III
-
MOTHS IV
-
MOTH POWDER
-
TO PREVENT THE BITES OF GNATS AND MIDGES
-
An
Abracadabra of Good Advice
-
A STRONG
ADHESIVE PASTE
-
A STRONG
PASTE FOR PAPER
-
ROMAN
CEMENT FOR OUTSIDE PLASTERING
-
TO RENDER
CLOTHING NON INFLAMMABLE
-
TO
MAKE COAL LAST LONGER I
-
TO
MAKE COAL LAST LONGER II
-
TO DISINFECT
DUSTBINS
-
TO IMPROVE
GILDING
-
GLOVES
-
FELT HATS
-
IVORY
-
JEWELRY
-
TO
COOL LIQUOR IN HOT WEATHER
-
MACKINTOSHES
-
MICE
-
ONIONS
-
PURIFYING ROOMS
-
SLUGS
-
SPONGES
-
STEEL WOOL
-
SUEDE COATS
-
TEAPOTS AND JUGS
-
IRON TANKS
-
Household
Receipts of Past Ages
-
A
DELICATE CANDLE FOR A LADIES' TABLE
-
HOW TO HELPE YOUR BOTTLES WHEN THEY ARE MUSTIE
-
CLEANING PEWTER
-
TO MAKE
PERFUMED LIGHTS
-
THE
FRENCH QUEEN'S PERFUME
-
TO
MAKE THE BEST AND STRONGEST GLEW
-
ANOTHER KIND OF STRONG GLEW FOR PIPES
-
POWDER
TO LAY AMONG LINNEN
-
TO KILL INSECTS
-
METHOD OF RESTORING AND RENDERING LEGIBLE DAMAGED
-
TO MAKE OBLITERATED OR SUNK WRITING IMMEDIATELY
-
TRACING PAPER
-
TO
PREVENT THE SMOKING OF A LAMP
-
THE
FRENCH METHOD OF POLISHING WOOD
-
TO POLISH IVORY
-
TO PRESERVE
BOOKS
-
TO CLEAN BLOND
LACE
-
A
RECEIPT TO CURE A COLD
-
Email Advice
Foreword
Our English Housewife must be of chaste thought, stout
courage, patience untyred, watchful, diligent, witty,
pleasant, constant in friendship, full of good
neighbourhood, wise in discourse, but not frequent
therein, sharp and quick of speech, but not bitter or
talkative, secret in her affairs, comfortable in her
counsels, and generally skilful in the worthy knowledge
which do belong to her vocation.
COUNTRY CONTENTMENTS, BY GERVASE MARKHAM, 1620
WARNING
All the recipes should be used with
considerable care: no guarantee is given of their
efficacy and the ingredients and methods. Some of the
older recipes should warn the user of possible
consequences.
The House
The air must be pure, frisky, and clean; the
foundations of gravel mixed with clay; the chief
prospects East and West, or North-east and South-west;
never South, for the South wind doth corrupt and make
evil vapours.
DIETARY OF HEALTH, BY DR ANDREW BOORDE, 1542
FLOOR POLISH I
Melt down any odd candle ends which are too small for
burning and when quite liquid, remove bits of wick and add
turpentine in equal proportions to the melted candle
grease; warm slightly before using.
FLOOR POLISH II
turpentine
linseed oil
vinegar
methylated spirits
Mix together in equal parts.
FLOOR POLISH III
Melt two wax candles or oddments of candles and ½ lb.
of shredded soap in 1 gill of boiling water; stir well.
When cold, add turpentine and linseed oil, each in equal
proportions to the amount of candle grease used. Keep well
corked.
LINOLEUM I
Take half a tin of polish, and fill it up with paraffin.
Set in a safe place to dissolve and stir until smooth. Used
on linoleum, tiled or polished floors, this will both clean
and polish, and make the surface less slippery.
LINOLEUM II
5 pints of water
1 pint of turpentine
¾ lb. beeswax
3 oz. carbonate of potash
Dissolve potash in boiling water. Add the beeswax,
shredded. When melted add the turpentine slowly and stir
until the mixture is of the consistency of cream.
AUSTRALIA
BRICK AND TILE FLOORS
Add a small quantity of paraffin to the pail of water. It
will keep floors a good red colour.
TILES AND STEPS
If red ochre or white hearthstone is mixed with a little
thin starch (left over from washing day) the tiles will
keep clean much longer and the colour will not wash off
during a shower of rain.
MARBLE FIREPLACES
8 oz. whitening
8 oz. shredded soap
2 oz. washing soda
2 oz. powdered pumice
Put the ingredients in a jar; mix them well. Pour over them
two pints of boiling water. Stand the jar in a pan of
boiling water and simmer for twenty minutes to half an
hour, stirring at intervals. Spread this paste, while it is
still hot, over the stained marble, getting it well into
any cracks or carving. Leave for twenty-four hours. Wash
off with soapy water. This quantity is sufficient for two
mantelpieces, unless they are very elaborate; the same
mixture may be used to clean a badly stained tombstone.
MARBLE
Mix up a quantity of very strong soap lees with quicklime
to the consistency of milk and lay it on the marble where
it may remain for twenty-four or thirty hours. Afterwards
clean the marble with soapy water.
OLD RECIPE BOOK, 1848
STONE HALLS AND
FLOORS
Boil 1 lb. of pipe-makers' clay with a quart of water and a
quart of small beer and put in a piece of stone blue. Wash
the stones in this mixture and when dry rub them with a
flannel and a brush.
PAINT ON
WOODWORK AND WALLS I
2 tablespoonsful of soft soap
¼ lb. of glue
Put soap and glue in a 24b. jam jar almost filled with
water. Stand jar in a pan of hot water until the glue is
melted. Stir well. Use on high-gloss paint.
PAINT ON
WOODWORK AND WALLS II
1 tablespoonful borax
2 tablespoonful size
Mix with a little cold water. Add a quart of boiling water.
FOR PAINTED WALLS
One tablespoonful of bicarbonate of soda to 1 quart of warm
water.
PAINT WORK
A solution of soap less powder is recommended for painted
surfaces both inside and outside the house. It must be
rinsed off with COLD water.
WHITE PAINT
White paint can be cleaned with equal parts of milk and
paraffin.
All these mixtures require the same treatment. Wash down
well with a soft cloth soaked with the solution. Rinse
with another cloth and plenty of clean water. Polish
with a soft duster or cloth.
BATHS I
Moisten a tablespoonful of dry kitchen salt with a little
spirits of turpentine, and scour the bath well with this,
using an old leather or soft rag. Wash afterwards with
warm, soapy water.
BATHS II
Mix some whiting with water and rub all over the bath.
Rinse out with warm water. This has been used with success
for baths discoloured by brown water from springs or
streams
BOILERS
To remove rust from boilers: rub the boiler with unsalted
fat of some kind and then put in some shavings and set fire
to them. When the boiler is cold throw in some cabbage
leaves and potato parings - in fact all kinds of vegetable
trimmings. Add enough water to cover and boil for two
hours. Empty carefully, rinse, and, while the boiler is
still warm, rub the sides and bottom of it with soft soap,
leaving this on the boiler until it is required for use.
WHITE ENAMEL COOKERS
Take one tablespoonful of paraffin and two of salt. Rub
this with a piece of flannel all over the burnt stains
which will easily come off. Then wash well with hot water
and soda.
CHIMNEYS I
A few pinches of flowers of sulphur thrown on the coals or
wood will speedily extinguish the most raging fire in a
chimney. A pound of sulphur has effectively put out, in a
few minutes, a fire in a tall chimney when the flames rose
two or three yards from the top.
BENJAMIN HAYWARD, 1830
CHIMNEYS II
Burn potato peelings mixed with salt at least once a week
in your grate. Such a glaze will form on the inside of your
chimney that it cannot get clogged with soot, so is not
likely to go on fire.
SOME
OLD METHODS OF CLEANING CHIMNEYS
Fire a gun up an old-fashioned wide kitchen chimney.
Push a holly bush up, tied to draining rods, or tie a
bunch of holly or heather to a long rope and drop it down
the chimney from the roof. One person pulled from the top
and one from the bottom. The sender did this many times
with her husband some forty years ago. As a child she
also remembers her grandfather cleaning the copper
chimney by buying 2d. worth of gun powder, wrapping it in
newspaper, paper it in the wood and coal) lighting it,
and putting the poker against the fire door. The member
says: 'We used to wait for the bang and my father used to
say, "That will go L for leather". And it did.'
WINDOWS I
Add some starch to the water with which windows are
cleaned. It helps to remove the dirt.
WINDOWS II
Polish windows with a little furniture cream. This keeps
away flies and the glass stays clean for a long time.
WINDOWS III
One pint of methylated spirit to 3 pennyworth of whiting.
Dilute the whiting with a little water. Add the methylated
spirits. Apply in the usual way and rub with a clean dry
duster.
WINDOWS IV
Paraffin and vinegar (or water) in equal parts. About 1
tablespoonful of butter of antimony to the pint and a
little methylated spirits. Shake well and apply with small
pads of butter muslin. This mixture may also be used for
polishing mirrors, brass, silver and highly polished
furniture.
A crack in a window pane can be mended by painting it
with water glass.
The Contents of
the House
Old as the house is, that chimneypiece is the dirtiest
thing I saw in it, and I am determined to have no one
thing carved in the furnishing of my house at Wimbledon,
my taste having always been to have things plain and
clean, from a piece of wainscott to a lady's face.
SARA DUCHESS OF MARLBOROUGH,
22/9/1732
TO HER GRANDAUGHTER LADY JOHN
RUSSELL
FURNITURE CREAM I
½ pint of turpentine
½ pint linseed oil
¼ pint methylated spirits
Put the ingredients into a bottle and always shake well
before using. Apply lightly on a soft cloth. Excellent for
mahogany and a deterrent to wood-worm.
FURNITURE CREAM II
1 oz. castile soap
1 oz. beeswax
1 oz. white wax
1 pint genuine turpentine
½ pint rainwater
Dissolve shredded soap in the rainwater in one pan. Shred
the waxes into the turpentine in another pan, but do not
let it get too hot. Pour warm soapy water into the
turpentine, stirring until cool. Pour, when creamy, into
wide-necked bottles. This makes 1½ pints of excellent
polish.
FURNITURE CREAM III
½ pint raw linseed oil
½ pint old ale
2 oz. spirits of wine
1 oz. spirits of salt
¼ oz. camphor
To be used with old linen.
RECIPE BOOK, 1880
FURNITURE CREAM IV
6 oz. beeswax
1 oz. soap flakes or soft soap
1½ pints turpentine
1 pint boiling water
Put the beeswax and turpentine into a double saucepan and
melt. Dissolve soap flakes in boiling water. When both
mixtures are cool, mix together, adding only enough of the
soap mixture to make a thick cream.
FURNITURE CREAM V
2 oz. beeswax
2 oz. white wax
2 oz. soft soap
1 pint turpentine
1 pint boiling water
Break up wax; put soft soap and wax into a large bowl and
add I pint of turpentine. Leave for two days. Then pour on
the boiling water. Leave it to get cold and then put it
into jars and seal.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Great care must be taken in melting down
turpentine or beeswax, as both are highly inflammable.
The method used in the above recipe is therefore strongly
recommended.
FURNITURE REVIVER
Mix together in a bottle equal quantities of paraffin,
methylated spirit, vinegar and turpentine. Shake well
before using. Apply with a soft rag and rub well into the
furniture.
TO WAX FURNITURE
In waxing it is important to make the coating as thin as
possible in order that the veins of the wood may be clearly
seen. Put 2 oz. each of white and of yellow wax over a
moderate fire in a clean vessel and when quite melted add 4
oz. of best spirits of turpentine. Stir until entirely cool
and you will have a pomade fit for waxing furniture. Apply
according to the usual method. The oil soon penetrates the
pores of the wood, bringing out the colour of it and
causing the wax to adhere better. The polish may be renewed
at any time by rubbing it with a fine cork.
TO
REMOVE WHITE RINGS CAUSED BY HEAT OR WATER FROM
POLISHED SURFACES I
Sprinkle with a little salt. Rub vigorously with a soft rag
moistened with olive or salad oil. Polish with a soft dry
cloth.
TO
REMOVE MARKS FROM POLISHED SURFACES II
Put a little paraffin on the mark. Rub hard with a soft
cloth. Pour on a few drops of spirits of wine and rub dry
with another cloth.
TO
REMOVE MARKS FROM POLISHED SURFACES III
Make a paste of washing blue and spread on heat or water
mark. Leave on for at least three hours. Clean off and
polish.
TO
REMOVE SCRATCHES FROM FURNITURE I
Rub with a cork dipped in camphorated oil. Leave for a
while and polish.
TO
REMOVE SCRATCHES FROM FURNITURE II
Light scratches on furniture will disappear if rubbed with
the kernel of a brazil nut.
TO REMOVE DENTS
Fold a piece of brown paper five or six times and saturate
it in hot water. Place on the dented part and press with a
hot flat-iron until all the moisture is evaporated from the
paper when the dent will have disappeared.
This recipe gives no indication of the effect of this
treatment oil the polish!
TO
REMOVE INK STAINS FROM FURNITURE
Mix 6 drops of nitre with 2 teaspoonsful of water. Apply
with a camel-hair brush and afterwards polish with a good
furniture cream.
TO FILL
SMALL HOLES IN FURNITURE
Melt in a double saucepan equal parts of beeswax and resin.
While plastic, fill hole and smooth with fine sandpaper.
TO CLEAN MAHOGANY
Take one pint of cold linseed oil; put it into a jar. Add
to it 4 pennyworth of alcanet root and 2 pennyworth of rose
pink.
Let it stand fourteen hours by the fire. Use it with linen
rags. Don't let it lye many minutes without rubbing it off
again.
N.B. The more elbow-grease the better.
OLD FAMILY RECEIPT BOOK, 1803
TO
CLEAN AND GIVE GLOSS TO OLD OAK AND OAK WAINSCOT
2 quarts strong beer
1 oz. coarse moist sugar
1 oz. beeswax
If greasy, first wash with warm beer. Boil these
ingredients together; when quite dissolved apply with a
large soft brush; allow to dry; rub until surface is
bright.
NOTE Fresh beer is not necessary. Any left in glasses
may be kept, well corked, in a stone bottle.
TO CLEAN WICKER
FURNITURE
Wicker furniture that has become soiled and dusty will look
like new if washed with a solution of salt and water, using
a small scrubbing brush; rinse well.
TO CLEAN OLD LACE I
Fold carefully, sprinkling dry powdered magnesia between
the folds. Leave for some days, when the magnesia will have
absorbed most of the dirt.
TO CLEAN OLD LACE II
Sew lace in a clean piece of linen and lay it all night in
salad oil. Next day boil in a large boiler of soapy water
for a quarter of an hour and rinse in several waters. Dip
into warm water in which a few lumps of sugar have been
dissolved and pin on a cloth to dry.
TO TINT LACE
Steep it in one of the following liquors:
1 Hay water: stew some hay seeds or a wisp of hay in
water until the correct tint is obtained.
2 Tea: use 2 oz. of tea to pint of water.
TO REVIVE BLACK LACE
Wash thoroughly in some good beer; clap the lace well,
after which pin it to a towel, according to its shape and
when nearly dry, over it with another towel and iron it
with a cool iron.
TO STIFFEN LACE
Steep it in rice or sugar water, about 2 lumps to the pint.
TO WASH A WHITE
LACE VEIL
Put veil in a strong lather of white soap and very clear
water 4 and let it simmer gently for a quarter of an hour.
Take out and squeeze well but be sure not to rub it. Rinse
twice in cold water, the second time with a touch of liquid
blue. Have ready some very clear, weak gum arabic water, or
thin starch, or rice water. Pass veil through it and clear
it by clapping; then stretch it out evenly and pin it to
dry on a linen cloth, making the edge as straight as
possible and fastening any scallops with pins. When dry,
lay a thin piece of muslin over it to iron, on the wrong
side.
TO REMOVE STAINS
FROM LINEN
Wine Stains Hold the article in milk while it is
boiling and the marks will soon disappear.
Tea Stains One tablespoonful of turpentine to every
bucketful of water in which the linen is boiled will remove
tea stains.
Stains of any kind Let the cloth imbibe a little
water without dipping, and hold the part over a lighted
match at a due distance. The spots will be removed by the
sulphurous gas.
OLD FAMILY RECIPE BOOK, 1850
MILDEWED LINEN I
Moisten stain and rub thickly with soap; sprinkle with
french chalk; place in sunshine to bleach; repeat till
stains disappear.
If the above process fails, use a bleach.
MILDEWED LINEN II
Mildewed In linen may be restored by soaping the spots;
while wet, cover them with fine chalk scraped to a powder;
rub well in.
A BALL TO
TAKE STAINS FROM LINEN
Take 4 oz. of hard white soap, beat it in a mortar with 2
small lemons sliced, and as much rocke allome as an hazel
nut, roll it in a ball, rub the stains therewith, and after
fetch it out with warme water if need be.
SIR HUGH PLATT, DELIGHTS FOR LADIES,
1609
TO CLEAN RUGS
AND CARPETS I
Grate two raw potatoes into a basin containing a pint of
cold water and allow to stand for a few minutes, when the
water should be strained off Dip a rough sponge into the
potato water and rub the rug all over, after which go over
again with a cloth that has been wrung out in clear water.
When rubbed dry, the rug will have recovered its freshness.
TO CLEAN RUGS
AND CARPETS II
Take sufficient Fuller's Earth and mix it to a paste with
boiling water. Spread this thickly over the stain and allow
it to remain for twenty-four hours. Brush the paste off
with a whisk and in most cases the stain will have
disappeared. An old carpet that needs a thorough cleaning
can be treated on the floor it occupies. Thoroughly brush
all the dust and dirt out, shred half an ounce of soap into
half a pint of boiling water, add a teaspoonful of ammonia
and a small lump of soda, a small brush should be lightly
dipped into this and the carpet well scrubbed; rinse this
off by means of a cloth constantly wrung out in clean, warm
water. Finally rub with a dry cloth.
TO CLEAN RUGS
AND CARPETS III
Wash them in ox gall mixed in cold water, it will take
spots out and make them look clean.
OLD RECEIPT BOOK, 1803
TAPESTRY
Warm some bran; rub well in several times, shake and brush
well.
TO REMOVE
STAINS FROM SILK I
Mix together 2 oz. Essence of lemon and 1 oz. oil of
turpentine. Rub gently with a linen rag.
TO REMOVE
STAINS FROM SILK II
Take a lump of magnesia and rub it wet on the spot of
grease. Let it dry, then brush off.
TO REMOVE
STAINS FROM SILK III
Iodine stains can be removed with methylated spirit,
applied at once. Wash later with warm soapy water. This
method can be used for other materials with good results.
WOOLLENS
Flannels and blankets will keep soft and will not shrink if
a tablespoon of ammonia is added to the first washing
water.
TO
REMOVE COD-LIVER OIL FROM WOOLLENS, ESPECIALLY BABY
CLOTHES
Soak the part stained with oil in a saucer into which some
glycerine has been put. Leave over night. Next day rinse,
either with soap and water, or water to which a little
detergent has been added. Take some carbon tetrachloride on
a clean piece of cloth or sponge and work in a ring towards
the middle of the stain, always from the outside to the
middle. This may need patience. The garment must then be
washed in warm, soapy water.
TO
TAKE THE SHINE OUT OF NAVY BLUE WOOLLEN MATERIALS
Boil a handful of ivy leaves in half a pint of water for a
few minutes; when cold lightly rub over the shine with a
clean piece of cloth.
TO KEEP WOOLLENS
SMOOTH
To remove those tiresome bobbles which form on baby's
woollens or on jumpers or cardigans, brush with a wet nail
brush.
WOOLLENS
When pressing pleats or trouser creases, arrange them
between newspaper; the natural moisture in the newsprint is
sufficient to make a good impress.
STAINS
Always remove stains as soon as possible and before
washing. If the material will stand it, boiling water
poured through the stain while it is still wet, will often
remove tea, coffee, fruit and other stains.
The following are recommended for specific stains:
Blood: soak in cold, salt water.
Creosote: (i) cotton and linen materials. Soak in
methylated spirit. Wash in cool soapy water.
(ii) tweeds and woollens. As above, but
brush well when dry and rinse in tepid water. If obstinate
wash in warm soapy water.
Grass: methylated spirits; if it remains
stubborn, soak overnight in glycerine.
Iodine: methylated spirits.
ink: (i) for dry stains, salts of lemon and
boiling water.
(ii) for wet stains, soak in buttermilk (if
available) or lemon juice and salt.
Red Ink: soak in water and vinegar; wash and boil
with washing soda.
Iron mould: (i) salts of lemon and boiling
water;
(ii) steep in the juice of a stick of
rhubarb; do not add sugar and use very hot.
Greasy hat bands: rub with oil of
eucalyptus.
Tar: rub with paraffin or lard; wash with soap
and water.
Paint: rub with turpentine or paraffin; remove
grease mark with benzene or some similar preparation.
EUCALYPTUS OIL will remove tar stains from any material. It
will also take adhesive plaster marks from the skin.
TO CEMENT BROKEN
CHINA I
Beat lime to the most impalpable powder; sift it through
fine muslin; tie some into a thin muslin bag; put onto the
edge of the broken china some white of egg; quickly dust
some lime on the same and unite the edges at once.
TO CEMENT BROKEN
CHINA II
Dissolve some isinglass in a small quantity of brandy or
gin or spirits of wine by a very gentle heat. Preserve it
in a bottle for use.
TO CEMENT BROKEN
CHINA III
Dissolve isinglass two parts and the same of gum arabic in
like manner as the preceding.
TO CEMENT BROKEN
CHINA IV
A liquid glue: 1/4 oz. of gum arabic dissolved in 2 oz. of
distilled vinegar.
DIAMOND
CEMENT FOR MENDING CHINA
Quarter oz. of isinglass dissolved in water by boiling it
as thick as cream; add one tablespoonful of spirits of
wine. Use this mixture warm.
FROM A VARIETY OF OLD FAMILY RECIPE
BOOKS
CLEANING BOTTLES
Narrow-necked bottles may be cleaned by the use of finely
sieved coal ashes. Shake well, until the glass is quite
clear. Rinse thoroughly. A small piece of charcoal left in
a bottle will soon remove any disagreeable smells.
CLEANING DECANTERS
Cover some eggshells with lemon juice and stand for
forty-eight hours. The eggshell will be dissolved; pour
into decanter, shaking occasionally.
TO
REMOVE STAINS FROM GLASS AND OLD ESTABLISHED STAINS
FROM VASES ETC.
Cut up potato in small pieces and place in the glass
article to be cleaned. Swish round and round in cold water
until the stains are removed.
LOOKING GLASSES
Sponge the surface with equal parts of gin and water. Dust
with powder blue and polish well with an old silk
handkerchief.
EVERYDAY COOKERY AND HOUSEKEEPING, MRS
BEETON, 1859
TO CLEAN BRASS
AND COPPER I
Vinegar and salt, but none must be left in the crevices.
TO CLEAN BRASS
AND COPPER II
Pulverised rotten stone, mixed with turpentine. Apply with
washleather, leave for a few minutes and wipe with a soft
cloth.
SILVER
A charged silver doth may be prepared by immersing a soft
cloth or a piece of turkish towelling in one of the
mixtures set out below. The cloth should be well saturated
and hung tip to dry, without wringing or squeezing, and
preferably in the open air. Wash the silver in hot soapy
water, and dry it with the prepared cloth. When this
becomes soiled, it may be washed and dried, and then
recharged with the mixture. If this is made in sufficient
quantity the surplus not absorbed may be returned to a
bottle and used again and again. Silver washed and dried in
this way should not need to be polished, but may be rubbed
occasionally with a washleather.
SILVER I
½ oz soap flakes
½ pint hot water
2 oz. whiting
1 oz. ammonium carbonate or 2 tablespoonsful
ammonia
Dissolve soap flakes in hot water and allow it to cool. Add
ammonium carbonate and whiting and sufficient water to make
a pint. Shake well and leave overnight.
SILVER II
¼ lb. rock ammonia
1 eggcupful whiting
1 pint boiling water
Crush ammonia, add whiting and pour over boiling water.
When ammonia is dissolved add a little cold water; immerse
turkish towelling squares in the liquid arid dry off.
SILVER III
Mix in a bowl a tablespoonful of plate powder, 2
tablespoonsful of liquid ammonia, half a teacupful of warm
water.
TO CLEAN TABLE
SILVER I
2 teaspoonsful common soda
1 teaspoonful salt
2 pints of very hot water
Use an old aluminium saucepan or bowl. Put in the silver,
rinse it, in hot water and dry it at once.
NOTE The receptacle must be aluminium, but a new one would
be damaged by the soda.
TO CLEAN TABLE
SILVER II
Silver plate and pewter may be cleaned with vinegar and
whitening.
SILVER OR PLATE POWDER
½ lb. precipitated whitening
¼ oz. jeweller's rouge
Sieve together until the powder is evenly coloured. Store
in small tins or jars.
TO CLEAN
SILVER PLATE AND BRASS
Boil an ounce of prepared hartshorn powder in a quart of
water; while on the fire, put into it as much plate as the
vessel will hold; let it boil a little, then take it out,
drain it over the saucepan, and dry it before the fire. Put
in more and serve the same, till you have done. Then put
into the water some clean linen rags, till all be soaked
up. When dry they will serve to clean the plate and are the
very best things to clean the brass-locks and finger plates
of doors. When the plate is quite dry it must be rubbed
bright with a leather. This is a very nice mode.
DOMESTIC COOKERY, BY A LADY, 1864
TO CLEAN
POLISHED-STEEL ARTICLES
Boil slowly 1 lb. of soft soap in 2 quarts of water to I
quart. In this jelly take 3 or 4 spoonsful and mix to a
consistence with emery; rub the steel articles well with
the mixture on a bit of broadcloth. When this is removed
wipe them well and polish with glass paper, not sandpaper.
RECIPE BOOK, 1848
TO
CLEAN AND PRESERVE LEATHER UPHOLSTERY I
Boil half a pint of linseed oil for one minute. Stand until
nearly cold. Pour in half a pint of vinegar and stir well.
Bottle and shake before using. Apply a little on a flannel
and rub well into the leather. Rub with a soft duster until
the polish is restored. This treatment softens the leather
and prevents cracking.
TO
CLEAN AND PRESERVE LEATHER UPHOLSTERY II
Wash the leather with warm water to which has been added a
teaspoonful of vinegar, using a new sponge; dry with a soft
chamois leather. Put the whites of 2 eggs and 2
teaspoonsful of turpentine into a basin, whisk well, and
rub into the dry leather with a piece of flannel. Dry with
clean linen.
A
POLISH FOR LEATHER UPHOLSTERY, BROWN BOOTS OR
FURNITURE
3 oz. beeswax
1 oz. white wax
1 oz. castile soap
1 pint turpentine
1 pint cold water
Shred the wax into the turpentine to dissolve; shred the
soap into boiling water; when only just warm, add it to the
wax and turpentine and mix well. This is best kept and
shaken occasionally before use.
TO POLISH PATENT
LEATHER
One part of linseed oil to two parts of cream. Warm both
and mix thoroughly. Apply with a flannel and polish with a
dry silk duster.
TO CLEAN LEATHER BAGS
These may be cleaned by dipping a sponge into warm water in
which a little oxalic acid has been dissolved.
TO POLISH
BROWN BOOTS AND SHOES
These may be polished with the inside of a banana skin.
TO MAKE BOOTS
WATERPROOF
Melt two parts of beeswax with one part of mutton fat.
Blend thoroughly. Rub on sides and uppers. Best applied
slightly warm.
WELLINGTON BOOTS
A clothes peg will hold a pair of wellington boots together
and keep them standing firmly in place instead of failing
over untidily. It keeps them from cracking their tops.
The Family Wash
They that wash on Monday have all the week to
dry;
They that wash on Tuesday are not so much
awry;
They that wash on Wednesday are not so much to
blame;
They that wash on Thursday wash for shame;
They that wash on Friday wash in need;
They that wash on Saturday are sluts indeed.
NURSERY RHYME
WASHING HINTS -
FLANNEL
Two teaspoonsful of glycerine should be added to hot water
when washing flannel.
WASHING HINTS - SILK
When washing silks add a little methylated spirits to the
rinsing water. It will preserve the sheen appearance of
silk when it is new.
WASHING HINTS
LINEN AND COTTON
To prevent linen and cotton articles from turning yellow,
wrap them in a cloth that has been over-blued. This will
keep them white for years.
IRONING HINT
Tie some beeswax into a piece of flannel. Rub it against
the flat surface and the sides of the iron and polish with
a duster. This will prevent rust and will give a very
smooth surface.
JAVELLE WATER for removing
mildew, bleaching, etc.
¼ lb. chloride of lime
2 oz. washing soda
1 quart cold water
1 pint boiling water
Pour the cold water on the chloride of lime in an
earthenware bowl or stone jam-jar. Dissolve the soda in
boiling water. Allow the chloride of lime to stand
overnight; strain through muslin. Pour the soda solution
onto the chloride solution and a powder is precipitated.
Strain off the clear liquid.
Use half warm water and half javelle water, adding a little
vinegar. Soak the clothes for half to three-quarters of an
hour.
This solution should be diluted ten times for use with cold
water for linens and cottons. It must NEVER be applied to
woollens and silks.
TOILET SOAP
I used your soap two years ago: since when I have used
no other.
PUNCH, 1884
Dissolve 1 can of soda lye in 2 1/2 pints of boiling
water. When the mixture is cold, add it very gradually to
5 lb. of clarified mutton fat, the tallow barely melted
Stir steadily. Add 4 oz. glycerine, ½ oz. of oil of
lavender, and 2 tablespoonsful of powdered borax.
Continue stirring till the mixture is as thick as honey.
Pour into shallow boxes lined with oiled paper. When
cold, cut into bars.
SPERMACETI SOAP
1 lb. of caustic potash lye
1 lb. pure lard
¾ lb. of oil of bitter almonds
¾ lb. spermaceti
Add the lard, bitter almonds and spermaceti to the caustic
potash; melt and mix. Heat until disappearance of alkali.
Rub in a mortar with 1/8 oz. spirits of wine; perfume with
½ oz. essence of bitter almonds.
HOUSEHOLD SOAP I
6½ lb. salt free fat
1 lb. caustic soda
3 pints water
Make according to the instructions on the caustic soda tin.
This quantity will make about 14 lb. of soap at a very low
cost. Mutton fat is the firmest but other waste fats can be
used after clarifying. A little borax, olive oil, or
paraffin may be added. The secret of making a smooth soap
is to blend the two solutions slowly at the same low
temperature. Stir until the mixture looks like honey and
after pouring it into a small sink or shallow pan, leave in
a warm room for twenty-four hours. Cut into bars and dry
for at least a month before using.
HOUSEHOLD SOAP II
1 lb. fat
1 lb. soda
¼ lb. quick lime
1 gallon water
Boil for seven hours; pour into large tins to set.
CARPET SOAP
Shred 2 oz. of common soap, pour over it 2 pints of boiling
water. Add 3 tablespoonsful of ammonia and ½ oz. of
washing soda. Store in jars or tins. Lather with hot water
and apply to carpets with a brush or cloth. Rinse with
clean water.
HOME-MADE WASHING
POWDER
½ lb. powdered soap
1 lb. soda crystals
¼ lb. sal ammoniac
Dry the soda crystals well in an oven then mix all well
together.
A MAGIC CLEANSER
Shred finely 4 oz. of castile soap. Pour over it 5 pints of
boiling rain water. Add ¾ oz. saltpetre. Boil all
together until the soap is dissolved. Cool and add ½
pint of ammonia. Bottle and cork tightly immediately. An
excellent cleanser for all kinds of fabrics, it removes
spots and grease and does not harm colour. If mixed with
whitening it cleans metals and windows, and is a good white
shoe cleaner.
HOUSEHOLD SOAP I
Make according to the instructions on the caustic soda tin.
This quantity will make about 14 lb. of soap at a very low
cost. Mutton fat is the firmest but other waste fats can be
used after clarifying. A little borax, olive oil, or
paraffin may be added. The secret of making a smooth soap
is to blend the two solutions slowly at the same low
temperature. Stir until the mixture looks like honey and
after pouring it into a small sink or shallow pan, leave in
a warm room for twenty-four hours. Cut into bars and dry
for at least a month before using.
HOUSEHOLD SOAP II
1 lb. fat
1 lb. soda
¼ lb. quick lime
1 gallon water
Boil for seven hours; pour into large tins to set.
CARPET SOAP
Shred 2 oz. of common soap, pour over it 2 pints of boiling
water. Add 3 tablespoonsful of ammonia and ½ oz. of
washing soda. Store in jars or tins. Lather with hot water
and apply to carpets with a brush or cloth. Rinse with
clean water.
HOME-MADE WASHING
POWDER
½ lb. powdered soap
1 lb. soda crystals
¼ lb. sal ammoniac
Dry the soda crystals well in an oven then mix all well
together.
A MAGIC CLEANSER
Shred finely 4 oz. of castile soap. Pour over it 5 pints of
boiling rain water. Add ¾ oz. saltpetre. Boil all
together until the soap is dissolved. Cool and add ½
pint of ammonia. Bottle and cork tightly immediately. An
excellent cleanser for all kinds of fabrics, it removes
spots and grease and does not harm colour. If mixed with
whitening it cleans metals and windows, and is a good white
shoe cleaner.
SCRUBBING PASTE
1 lb. silver sand
1 lb. soft soap
1 lb. whitening
1½ pints cold water
Mix the ingredients in an old saucepan or tin. Simmer on a
low heat until it is thick and creamy (about one hour).
Stir occasionally while cooking and cooling. Use as for
soap, rinsing carefully where wood is stained.
Pests that Crawl
and Fly
I was once in the Tower, and viewed the wardrobe, and
there was a great many fine clothes: (I can give them no
other title, for I was never either linen or woollen
draper) yet as brave as they looked, my opinion was that
the moths might consume them; moths are under the
dominion of Mars; this herb Wormwood being laid among
cloaths will make a moth scorn to meddle with the
cloaths, as much as a lion scorns to meddle with a mouse,
or an eagle with a fly.
THE COMPLETE HERBAL, BY NICHOLAS CULPEPER,
1653
To keep away beetles and all kinds of insects add a
little paraffin to the water when washing hearths and
doorsteps.
ANTS I
Sprinkle a little flowers of sulphur on shelves and in
cupboards.
ANTS II
Dissolve 2 oz. of tartar emetic in a tablespoonful of water
and add a teaspoonful of sugar. Set the mixture in an open
shallow dish where ants are troublesome.
FLIES I
A very old-fashioned remedy is to plant an elder bush by
the kitchen door.
FLIES II
Dip a small sponge in boiling water. Pour on this a few
drops of oil of lavender. This will give off a delicious
perfume which flies do not like. Moisten the sponge with
boiling water twice a day, but with the oil not more than
once a week.
FLIES III
Mix one teaspoonful of black pepper and 2 teaspoonsful of
moist sugar in a tablespoonful of milk. Set the saucer in
any convenient place.
FLIES IV
Boil 3 oz. of quassia chips in ½ pint of water or
dissolve 2 drachms of extract of quassia in ½ pint of
boiling water. Sweeten with sugar and pour it into plates
and set them in various parts of the room. This mixture
though fatal to flies is not injurious to animals. Quassia
water prepared as above but without the sugar may be
applied to cupboards, drawers or window sashes. It will
keep away all insects.
RECIPE BOOK, 1848
HOME-MADE FLY PAPER
5 tablespoonsful of castor oil
8 tablespoonsful of resin
Heat oil, pour it over the resin, stirring until it is
dissolved. Spread on thick white paper.
POMANDER
Cloves, or an orange stuck with cloves, i.e. a
Pomander, will keep away flies.
BEETLES I
Cucumber rind is known to be a safe method of getting rid
of beetles. Cut it in slices and place at their holes and
it will drive them away.
BEETLES II
Ordinary lime (unslaked) used perfectly dry. Crush it very
fine, and spread it where the beetles are likely to be.
MOTHS I
Many and various are the methods recommended for keeping
away moths.
Equal parts of oil of camphor and spirits of turpentine.
Soak a piece of blotting paper in the mixture and put it
in a drawer on top of the clothes.
MOTHS II
Take one drachm of oil of cloves and half a drachm of oil
of caraway, to which add one gill of the best gin or
whiskey, and also a piece of camphor the size of a walnut;
let the whole remain together for twenty-four hours. With
this sprinkle the goods, fold them immediately and put
away.
THE ENGLISHWOMAN' S DOMESTIC MAGAZINE,
1854
MOTHS III
Shavings of cedar wood or cedar dust in muslin bags, placed
in cupboards or drawers.
MOTHS IV
To destroy moth eggs, use a solution of acetate of potash
in of rosemary, 15 grains to the pint.
MOTH POWDER
One pound of crushed crystals of paradichlorobenzine mixed
with one handful each of dried and crumbled (not powdered)
thyme, rosemary, tansy, lavender, southernwood (Old Man),
and one tablespoonful of crushed cloves. This should be put
into sachets for putting into drawers, cupboards, or among
blankets.
TO
PREVENT THE BITES OF GNATS AND MIDGES
2 oz. quassia chips
1 pint water
Bring slowly to the boil. Simmer for twenty minutes. Strain
and bottle. This solution may be applied to any parts of
the skin exposed to attacks of insects. It is harmless to
the complexion, and make-up can be used as usual. The
mixture gives protection for the whole day.
An Abracadabra
of Good Advice
Some respite to husbands the weather may send,
But the housewives affairs have never an end.
PREFACE TO THE BOOK OF HOUSEWIFERY, BY
THOMAS TUSSER, 1580
A STRONG ADHESIVE
PASTE
Take ½ lb. of glue; dissolve it with old beer and boil
it in a glue pot till it turns quite thick.
BENJAMIN HAYWARD, 1830
A STRONG PASTE FOR
PAPER
To two large spoonsful of flour put as much powdered resin
as will lie on a shilling. Mix with as much strong beer as
will make it of a due consistance and boil half an hour.
Let it be cold before it is used.
THE ENGLISHWOMEN'S DOMESTIC MAGAZINE,
1854
ROMAN
CEMENT FOR OUTSIDE PLASTERING
Take 84 lb. of drift sand, 12 lb. of unslaked lime and 4
lb. of the poorest cheese, grated through an iron grater.
When well mixed add enough hot, but not boiling, water to
make into a proper consistence. The wall or lath work
should be covered first with hair and lime mortar and well
dried. This was used by the Ancients and is now adopted
among us. The Suffolk cheese does better than any other in
this country.
TO RENDER
CLOTHING NON-INFLAMMABLE
One ounce of alum added to rinsing water will make clothes
almost non-inflammable. They will only smoulder very
slowly. The same method may be used for stage curtains and
properties.
TO MAKE COAL LAST
LONGER I
Half a teaspoonful of saltpetre, mixed in a cupful of water
and poured over a scuttle of coal will make it last much
longer.
TO MAKE COAL
LAST LONGER II
A good handful of common soda, dissolved in half a
bucketful of warm water and thrown over a hundredweight of
coal and allowed to dry will increase the burning power of
coal by twenty-five per cent.
TO DISINFECT DUSTBINS
Burn an old newspaper inside the empty dustbin immediately
after the dustman's visit. It not only cleans the bin but
leaves it perfectly dry.
TO IMPROVE GILDING
Alum and common salt, of each 1 oz., purified with 2 oz. of
water, ¼ oz. vinegar. This much improves the colour
of gilt articles, it being applied with a soft brush.
OLD RECIPE BOOK
GLOVES
Chamois leather gloves should be washed on the hands, in
tepid water to which a tablespoonful of olive oil should be
added. Use a good quality oily soap. Rinse well, still on
the hands, in soapy water as this will keep them
soft. Squeeze gently, never wring. Hang the gloves to dry
on glove stretchers or if there are no glove stretchers
available blow hard into each glove while it is wet. Dry
very slowly. This will help to keep the shape.
Fabric gloves may be washed in tepid, soapy water. Rinse
well in clear water and dry as for chamois leather.
FELT HATS
Put a bowl or basin inside the hat and rub all over with
ink eraser.
IVORY
Methylated spirits will clean and improve the colour of
ivory. It must be applied with linen rags and wiped off at
once.
JEWELRY
Simple jewelry, such as brooches or rings, can be cleaned
with eau-de-cologne, applied with a very soft rag, and
rubbed gently with a piece of chamois leather.
TO COOL LIQUOR
IN HOT WEATHER
Dip a cloth in cold water. Wrap it two or three times round
the bottle; then place it in the sun. Repeat this process
twice.
OLD RECIPE BOOK, 1800
MACKINTOSHES
A mackintosh which has become hard may be cleaned thus:
dissolve a handful of grey lime in half a pail of water and
apply to the stiff parts with a small sponge.
MICE
The smell of peppermint is most obnoxious to mice; a few
drops of oil of peppermint will soon drive them away.
ONIONS
To remove the smell of onions from the hands, put some
mustard powder on the hands when dry; rub in well and rinse
off. A little salt in the water is also a good way of
ridding the hands of strong food smells.
PURIFYING ROOMS
This method will remove the smell of cooking: soak a few
pieces of brown paper in saltpetre water and allow them to
dry. When required, a piece of this should be laid in a tin
pan or in a coal scuttle; lay a handful of dried lavender
flowers upon it and apply a match. The aroma is refreshing
and agreeable. A few drops of oil of lavender in a glass of
very hot water will purify the air of a room almost
instantly.
SLUGS
Cabbage leaves heated until soft, either before the fire or
in the oven should be rubbed with unsalted butter or fresh
dripping Lay them in places infested by slugs. In a few
hours the leaves will be covered with slugs which may be
collected and destroyed.
SPONGES
Slimy sponges may be washed in a solution of water to which
has been added either lemon juice, vinegar, or ammonia.
Rinse well in warm water and dry on rack.
STEEL WOOL
To prevent steel wool from becoming rusty, keep it, when
not in use, in a jar containing one cupful of water to
which three tablespoonsful of bicarbonate of soda have been
added. An alternative is to keep the steel wool in strong
soapy water.
SUEDE COATS
The surface may be freshened by the use of a very fine wire
brush, used gently or it will damage the leather. Spots may
be removed by rubbing with a piece of art-gum. Fine
sandpaper is an alternative to the wire brush.
TEAPOTS AND JUGS
A lump of sugar in a teapot, or any such closed vessel,
will keep it sweet for a long time.
IRON TANKS
To mend a leaky iron tank, mix equal parts of yellow soap
and whitening into a stiff paste. Fill the holes with the
paste, which sets very hard, and it will last a long time.
AUSTRALIA
Household
Reciepts of Past Ages
A
DELICATE CANDLE FOR A LADIES' TABLE
Cause your Dutch candles to be dipped in Virgin wax so as
their last coat may be thereby wax and this means you may
carry them in your hand without melting and the sent of the
yellow tallow not break through to give offence, but if you
would have them to resemble yellow wax candles then first
let the tallow be coloured with turmericke boiled therein,
and strained, and after your candles have been dipped
therein to a sufficient greatness, let them take their last
coat from yellow wax, this may be done in a great round can
of tin plate, having a bottom, and being somewhat deeper
than the length of your candle; and as the wax spendeth,
you may still supply it with more.
DELIGHTS OF LADIES, SIR HUGH PLATT,
1609
HOW
TO HELPE YOUR BOTTLES WHEN THEY ARE MUSTIE
Some put them in an oven when the bread is newly drawne,
closing up the oven, and so let them rest till the morning.
Others content themselves with scaulding them in hot liquor
onely till they are sweet.
DELIGHTS OF LADIES, SIR HUGH PLATT
HOW TO
KEEPE FLYES FROM OILE PEECES
An Italian concepte both for tile rareness and use thereof
doth please me above all other: viz: Pricke a cowcumber
full of barley corns with the small spring ends outwards,
make little holes in the cowcumber first with a wooden or
bone bodkin, and after put in tile grain, these being thick
placed will in time cover all the cowcumber so as no man
can discerne what strange plant the same should be. Such
cowcumbers to be hung up in the middest of summer rooms to
drawe all the flies unto them, which otherwise would flie
upon the pictures or hangings.
DELIGHTS OF LADIES, SIR HUGH PLATT
CLEANING PEWTER
'For your plaites if they are well washed every mealle with
woater and brann, soe hott as theare hands can indewar it,
then
rinsed in faire woater and so sett one by one befoare the
fire, as thay may dry quick, I am confident they will dry
without
spots, for I never knew any sawce staine soe except it be
pickled rabbits, which stand up on the plait awhile, soe
they will
stoane them filthily . . . This is all the scill I have.'
MRS MARGARET ELMES, IN A LETTER TO
HER
BROTHER, SIR RALPH VERNEY OF CLAYDON,
IN
REPLY TO A REQUEST FOR ADVICE ON
CLEANING
HIS PEWTER DINNER SERVICE, 1645
TO MAKE PERFUMED
LIGHTS
Take sweet olive oil one pound, Benjamin, Storax in powder,
one ounce, Musk, Ambergrise, of each one scruple, mix
with
the oil, which put into a lamp to burn: and the oil will
yield a fragrant odour.
POLYGRAPHICES, BY WILLIAM SALMON, 30 MARCH
1685
THE FRENCH
QUEEN'S PERFUME
First burn chips of Cypress in the Chamber a pretty while,
the doors and windows being shut. Then take Damask Rose
water
a pint: white Sugar Candy an ounce: Put them in a perfuming
pan and let them boyl softly in the embers.
POLYGRAPHICES, WILLIAM SALMON
TO MAKE
THE BEST AND STRONGEST GLEW
Take scummed milk, which has stood so long that no more
cream will arise from it; scum it very clean, and set it
over the
Fire in a Leaden Pot, letting it boyl a little: and in any
Cream arise, take it off then put into it a sufficient
quantity of glew, cut
into little bits, which will soon melt: boyl it to a good
body, that it be neither too thick nor too thin, (for in
this boyling lyes
much of Art;) then take it from the fire and use it as you
do other glew. Where Note: that this glew binds beyond
belief, and
will not be subject to resolve in any ordinary moisture of
the Weather; and the reason is, because the curdy part of
the Milk
freed of its oyl, is joyned with the glew.
POLYGRAPHICES, BY WILLIAM SALMON
ANOTHER
KIND OF STRONG GLEW FOR PIPES AND AQUEDUCTS
Tobaco pipe clay, dryed and reduced to powder, and mixt
with good store of short flocks, and beat up with Linseed
Oyl to a stiff Paste, like kneaded Dough, makes a strong
and lasting cement for Pipes and Aqueducts: and being made
into Pipes, (though long a drying) is very stanch and
lasting.
POLYGRAPHICES, BY WILLIAM SALMON
POWDER TO LAY
AMONG LINNEN
Take Calamus Aromaticus, Florentine Iris roots, of each two
ounces, Violet flowers dried one ounce, round Cypress roote
two drachms, adeps Rosaeum one drachm and a half, reduce
all to a very fine powder: it is excellent to lay among
linnen, or to strew in the hair.
POLYGRAPHICES, BY WILLIAM SALMON
TO KILL INSECTS
Lime... new powdered 20 lbs.
Basket salt 4 lbs.
Scotch small snuff 4 lbs.
Viv: sulphur 4 lbs.
Mix them well together, making it weaker or stronger with
snuff as you see necessary. Then take a puff and dust it
over the hedges, trees, plants etc., not too thick, in the
evening or before rain. A quantity as large as the above
will destroy more than a Parish will gather in one week.
One dusting before the insects are got with life, and
another seven or eight days after the first will answer
effectually. It will kill worms, snails, beetles, ants,
etc.
MANUSCRIPT BOOK, 1775
METHOD
OF RESTORING AND RENDERING LEGIBLE DAMAGED
PARCHMENTS, DEEDS ETC.
When a parchment deed becomes discoloured and obliterated
by moisture, immerse it in cold spring water as it is drawn
from the well, for about a minute and then press it between
two sheets of blotting paper, to prevent it shrivelling up
while drying. It lvill generally, when nearly dry, be found
to have resumed its original colour and appear uniformly
alike; but should the characters not prove quite legible on
its being nearly dry the operation must be repeated till
they do.
FAMILY RECEIPT BOOK, 1800
TO
MAKE OBLITERATED OR SUNK WRITING IMMEDIATELY LEGIBLE
Bruise or infuse 2 or 3 nutgalls in ½ pint of white
wine and let the bottle stand in the sun or other warm
place, then wash that part of the parchment or paper which
is wanted to have the writing recovered with a sponge or
soft brush dipped in the vinous infusion; and the purpose
will be immediately answered, if it be sufficiently strong.
FAMILY RECEIPT BOOK, 1800
TRACING PAPER
Dissolve two ounces of true Canada Balsam in 4 ozs. of
Spirits of Turpentine, in a basin: spread out a quire of
the best silver (not tissue) paper and, with a clean brush,
(called by painters a ground tool,) pass over the upper
sheet of the paper with the varnish, and with the same
brush, (scraped dry against the basin) rub the varnish into
the paper; then turn the sheet over and rub it with the dry
brush. When the upper sheet is well anointed, hang it to
dry over a pack thread, about 12 hours. Proceed with the
others.
ANOTHER FAMILY RECEIPT BOOK, ABOUT
1820
TO PREVENT
THE SMOKING OF A LAMP
Soak the wick in strong vinegar, and well dry it before you
use it: It will then burn both sweet and pleasant, and give
much satisfaction for the trifling trouble.
FAMILY RECEIPT BOOK, 1820
THE
FRENCH METHOD OF POLISHING WOOD
Take a piece of fine pumice stone and water, and pass
regularly over the work, until the rising of the grain is
cut down: then take the powdered Tripoli and boiled Linseed
Oil and polish the work to a bright face, which will be far
superior to any other polish: but it requires much more
time.
FAMILY RECEIPT BOOK, 1820
TO POLISH IVORY
Ivory is polished with putty and water, by means of a
rubber, made up hot: which in a short time produces a fine
gloss.
FAMILY RECEIPT BOOK, 1820
TO PRESERVE BOOKS
A few drops of any perfumed oil will secure libraries from
the consuming effects of mould and damp. Russian leather,
which is perfumed with the tar of birch tree, never
moulders; and merchants suffer large bales of this leather
to remain in the London docks, knowing that it cannot
sustain any injury from damp. This manner of preserving
books with perfumed oils was known to the Ancients. The
Romans used oil of cedar to preserve valuable manuscripts.
THE ENGLISHWOMAN'S DOMESTIC MAGAZINE,
1853
TO CLEAN BLOND LACE
Detach the blond from the caul, but not from the quilling
of a cap. Fold it evenly in four lengths, if scalloped at
the edge, and take care that the scallops lap over each
other. Tack it evenly, first along the scalloped edge, next
where it joins the quilling. Wet it in cold, soft, water,
soap it well with common soap, yellow or white, taking care
that there is no gravelly roughness in the soap: lather
lightly, and do not rub too hard. If very dirty, use two or
three waters, repeating the process of lathering. Rinse it
finally in cold soft water, and when quite free from soap,
dip in water slightly blued with smalt, commonly called
powder-blue, with three or four small lumps of white sugar
dissolved in it. Squeeze it, then lay it between the folds
of a cloth, pull the tacking threads out, and unfold: then
iron it before it is dry. The iron must not be plied
lengthwise, but in short strokes from the quilling to the
scallop, or edge fit is not scalloped. Next detach the
blond from the quilling, and finally pass the iron lightly
along the blond, without straining it; roll it on a card
ready for use.
THE ENGLISHWOMAN'S DOMESTIC MAGAZINE,
1853
A RECEIPT TO CURE A
COLD
Put the sleeve of a shirt, with an arm in it, round your
neck and take essence of twolips. N.B. To be applied
constantly. It has never been known to fail!
FAMILY RECEIPT BOOK, 1803
Put off your cares with your garments, whether they be
public or private, so that you may sleep better, but
resume them in the morning.
SCHOOL OF SALERNE, OR A DIET FOR THE
HEALTHFUL,
SIR JOHN HARINGTON, 1625
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Last Updated: 9 Apr. 2009